Nestled in the charming town of Auxerre in the Yonne department of France, Auxerre Cathedral, also known as Cathédrale Saint-Étienne d'Auxerre, stands as a testament to Gothic architecture and centuries of rich history. This magnificent cathedral, dedicated to Saint Stephen, the first martyr of the Church, is a must-visit for history enthusiasts, architecture buffs, and anyone who appreciates the beauty of medieval craftsmanship.
Auxerre Cathedral is a stunning example of Gothic architecture, with its construction spanning from the early 13th century to the mid-16th century. The cathedral's most notable elements include the lancet-style Gothic choir from the first half of the 13th century, the 13th and 14th-century stained glass windows, the artistically significant apsidal chapel, and the ambulatory. The portals of the cathedral boast remarkable statuary, and the three large rose windows and other 16th-century stained glass windows add to the cathedral's grandeur. The façades of the transept, the crypt, and the medieval frescoes all contribute to the cathedral's status as a remarkable representative of Gothic architecture in northern France.
The current cathedral is the fifth sanctuary to have been built on this site since the 5th century. The first church was replaced by a larger one built by Saint Amâtre (circa 386-418). This second church was adorned with a mosaic-decorated apse by Bishop Desiderius (Saint Didier of Auxerre) in the 7th century, but it was destroyed by fire in the late 9th century. The third sanctuary, constructed under Bishop Hérifried (887-909), also succumbed to fire in 1023. A Romanesque cathedral was then built by Hugues de Chalon and consecrated in 1057, but its construction was not completed until later by Robert de Nevers.
The construction of the current Gothic cathedral began in 1215 under Bishop Guillaume de Seignelay. The work started simultaneously on the choir, above the existing crypt, and the south tower of the western façade. However, progress was slow due to the lack of enthusiasm from Seignelay's successors. By 1235, the main structure of the choir was completed, and the installation of the ambulatory's stained glass windows began, finishing around 1250. The construction of the western façade and nave commenced but progressed slowly.
In the late 13th century, consolidation work was needed on the choir due to structural issues. By 1300, the south transept arm's construction began, with the portal dedicated to Saint Stephen. The Romanesque nave was demolished in the early 14th century to make way for the Gothic nave, which was built between 1320 and 1350. The Hundred Years' War caused delays, and the south aisle was not completed until around 1378. The north transept arm and towers were still unfinished at the beginning of the 15th century.
The installation of the nave's stained glass windows took place from 1390 to 1410, and the construction of the north transept arm began in 1415. The portal of this transept arm was dedicated to the saints of the Auxerre church, including Saint Germain, Saint Pèlerin, and Saint Amâtre. The construction of this arm was completed under Bishop Jean III Baillet (1477-1513). The nave's vaults were built in 1478, and the north tower's construction began in 1500, reaching its second level in 1525 under Bishop François I de Dinteville.
The Wars of Religion in the 16th century halted any hopes of completing the cathedral's façade and the south tower. In 1567, the Protestant forces led by Louis de Blosset, Jean de La Borde, and François Marraffin sacked the city, causing significant damage to the cathedral. Bishop Jacques Amyot (1571-1593) initiated restoration efforts in 1576. Despite these efforts, the cathedral remained incomplete, and the south tower was never built.
The labyrinth that once existed in the cathedral was destroyed in 1690. In 1764, the Renaissance jubé was replaced with choir grilles created by Parisian ironworker Dhumier, with doors designed by Claude-Nicolas Ledoux. The French Revolution brought further destruction, with the cathedral being converted into a Temple of Reason. The crypt was used as a cellar, and many artworks were melted down or repurposed. Fortunately, the stained glass windows were spared due to the high cost of replacing them.
In 1840, thanks to the efforts of Prosper Mérimée, Auxerre Cathedral was listed as a historical monument. Extensive restoration work took place throughout the 19th century, with Eugène Viollet-le-Duc overseeing the restoration of the crypt from 1844 to 1848. Further restoration of the Gothic cathedral began in 1866 under architect Piéplu, with stained glass windows being restored or completed by the Vessières brothers and later by David in 1925-1930.
During the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, the cathedral suffered damage from Prussian cannonballs, with one destroying a beautiful 13th-century stained glass window. Since 2001, a comprehensive restoration campaign has been underway, funded by the state, the Burgundy region, the Yonne department, and the city of Auxerre. This campaign includes restoring the sanctuary's roof and the western façade, particularly the three portals and their statuary.
The cathedral's ogival-style structure measures 100 meters in length and 40 meters in width at the façade. The north tower, completed in the 16th century, stands at 68 meters tall, just one meter shorter than Notre-Dame de Paris. The interior length is 98 meters, with the nave and choir vaults reaching a height of 30 meters. The central nave measures 12 meters in width. The western façade, with its triangular profile, is divided into three vertical sections by four prominent buttresses. The north side features five levels, with the top level forming the north tower. The central section includes the portal, rose window, and gable, while the south side, intended for the south tower, only includes the ground level and a portal.
Auxerre Cathedral, with its rich history and stunning architecture, offers visitors a glimpse into the past and a chance to marvel at the artistry and craftsmanship of the Gothic era. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply looking for a beautiful and serene place to visit, Auxerre Cathedral is a destination that should not be missed.
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