The Clock tower of Auxerre, known locally as Tour de l'Horloge, stands majestically in the heart of the old town of Auxerre, France. This 15th-century marvel is not just a timepiece but a symbol of the town's rich history and architectural prowess. Nestled in the pedestrian center of Auxerre, it connects the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville to the Rue de la Draperie, serving as a bridge between past and present.
The history of the Clock tower of Auxerre dates back to the 3rd and 4th centuries when a structure known as the Tour Gaillarde occupied this spot. Originally part of the city's early fortifications, it protected the Porte des Comtes, which opened onto the road to Paris. This road, often referred to as the Porte de Paris, ran alongside the city walls to the west. The tower was strategically located at the end of the Rue de la Lormerie, home to craftsmen working with copper harnesses, and led to the governor's house and later to the Town Hall square.
During the Middle Ages, the Tour Gaillarde served various purposes, including as a prison until 1602. In 1411, amidst the Hundred Years' War, the citizens of Auxerre installed a large clock with springs and chimes in the tower of the Saint-Eusèbe church. This clock was crucial for coordinating the city's defense services. However, the church's location was too remote, and its bell could only be heard by a small part of the city. The need for a more centrally located alert system led to the construction of a new clock tower at the site of the Tour Gaillarde.
In 1457, the Count Jean de Bourgogne authorized the installation of a belfry and a clock on the Tour Gaillarde and the adjacent city gate. Despite the challenges posed by ongoing conflicts, plagues, and financial constraints, the citizens of Auxerre persevered. By the late 15th century, they had installed a large bell with two chimes, crafted by a Parisian founder. The construction of the new tower began in earnest after receiving permission from King Charles VIII in 1483.
The Clock tower of Auxerre, as it stands today, is a testament to Gothic architecture. The original square base of the Roman tower was rounded off to support a wooden spire. The belfry's wooden beams were wrapped in lead sheets, and a stone staircase provided access to the upper part of the gate. An external staircase on the tower's right side led to the chimes.
The belfry itself is circular, with the square core of the Roman tower still intact. The new tower is crowned with an openwork balustrade and a second wooden gallery adorned with pinnacles. Atop this structure is an octagonal spire lantern with sharp gables. The clock mechanism is housed next to the tower, above the Gothic-style gate. The original clock faces were decorated with arabesques and filled with colored glass, separated by gilded lead moldings.
One of the most fascinating features of the Clock tower of Auxerre is its astronomical clock. This clock not only displays the hours of the day but also lunar hours and moon phases. Each clock face has two hands, one with a sun at its tip indicating the 24 solar hours, and another with a moon showing the lunar hours and phases. The moon hand is hollow, containing a rod with a two-colored globe at its end. This globe rotates to display the moon phases, driven by the motion of the sun hand.
Below each clock face are inscriptions that add a poetic touch to this historical monument. The southwest face bears a Latin inscription, which translates to: Before all the sky moves me: the sky is my law. If the sky is your law, you go safely. The northeast face, facing the Town Hall, reads: While I die you die, yet in dying, hour, I am reborn. Thus you will be born for Heaven, while you die for the Earth – 1672.
Over the centuries, the Clock tower of Auxerre has undergone numerous restorations. In the 17th century, significant repairs were made to the spire and the clock mechanism. The 18th century saw the addition of a sundial on the tower's south side to help regulate the clock. In 1814, the clock faces were replaced with simpler designs, reflecting the changing tastes and practical needs of the time.
Today, the Clock tower of Auxerre stands as a proud symbol of the town's resilience and heritage. Its intricate design and historical significance make it a must-visit landmark for anyone exploring Auxerre. Whether you're a history buff, an architecture enthusiast, or simply a curious traveler, the Clock tower of Auxerre offers a glimpse into the past and a timeless connection to the present.
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