Palais des Gouverneurs

In the heart of Bastia's historic Citadelle quarter, the Palais des Gouverneurs stands as a testament to the rich and turbulent history of Corsica. This remarkable monument, once the residence of the Genoese governors, has witnessed centuries of conflict, governance, and transformation. Today, it serves as a museum, inviting visitors to explore its storied past and architectural splendor.

The Birth of the Castello della Bastia

The origins of the Palais des Gouverneurs are deeply intertwined with the founding of Bastia itself. In 1380, the Genoese governor Leonello Lomellini commissioned the construction of a small fortification on a rocky promontory near the fishing port of Portu Cardu. This early fortress, known as the bastia or castello della bastia, was strategically placed to protect the coastline and facilitate trade. It is from this modest fortification that the city of Bastia derives its name.

The bastia's early history was tumultuous, marked by conquests and reconquests. It fell to Count Arrigo della Rocca in 1393, changed hands several times, and was finally reclaimed by Genoa in 1437. The Genoese held it until the French conquest in the 18th century.

Residence of the Genoese Governors

It wasn't until a century after its creation that the bastia evolved into the grand residence of the Genoese governors. The palace housed the governor's apartments, served as the seat of the court of justice, and included barracks, chapels, and notoriously unsanitary prisons in its subterranean levels. The palace also featured several cisterns to ensure a reliable water supply during sieges.

Over the years, the palace underwent numerous modifications and expansions. By 1457, it had grown to include around twenty rooms. In 1476, Antonio Tagliacarne, a Ligurian entrepreneur, constructed a cluster of houses around the bastia, forming the nucleus of Terranova, the new town, in contrast to the older settlement of Terravechja at Portu Cardu.

In 1487, significant renovations were made, including the construction of thicker walls and two large round towers, one of which is known as Il Torrione. The palace became known as the palazzo pubblico detto cittadella, a public palace referred to as the citadel.

Transformation Under French Rule

Following the French annexation of Corsica in 1768, the palace was abandoned as the seat of government moved to the former convent of the Missionaries, now the Jean Nicoli High School. The Palais des Gouverneurs then served various functions, including housing the Conseil Supérieur de la Corse and later the Directoire départemental. From 1794, it was used as a barracks for troops, known in the 19th century as Caserne Watrin.

During World War II, the palace suffered significant damage when the German forces mined and destroyed its west and north wings upon their departure from Corsica.

A New Life as a Museum

After being abandoned by the military, the palace was handed over to the municipality of Bastia in 1952, and it became a repository for the city's museum collections. In 1990, the state ceded the building to the city. The façade and roofs were classified as historical monuments in 1977.

From 1952 to 1998, the museum focused on Corsican ethnography. However, with the opening of the Musée de la Corse in Corte in 1997, the Bastia museum shifted its focus to the city's history. After extensive renovations, the museum reopened in 2010, offering visitors a deep dive into Bastia's past.

Architectural Highlights

The Palais des Gouverneurs is organized around a central courtyard, or cortile, with access originally via a drawbridge over a moat from the south. The imposing round tower, Il Torrione, is a prominent feature of the fortress.

On the first floor of the east wing lies the sala maggiore, a grand hall where the Genoese governor exercised his power. This room hosted important ceremonies, including the annual election of the podestà of Bastia on May 1 and the election of the Nobles Twelve in September.

The Infamous Prisons

The palace's prisons, located in the basement, were notorious for their grim conditions. In the early 17th century, the prison comprised fourteen cells, each with a distinct name, such as la Reale, la Lomellina, and il Turco. One cell, il Panno, was reserved for women. In 1812, 300 Roman priests were imprisoned here for refusing to take an oath demanded by Napoleon I. One of them described the horrific conditions, including the stench, insects, and water seepage from the cisterns. The five lowest cells, below sea level, were likened to an antechamber of hell, with the cell known as l'Inferno partially submerged by the sea.

The Bastions

The Citadelle of Bastia originally featured six bastions, with the San Carlo and San Gerolamo bastions adjacent to the Palais des Gouverneurs. These fortifications played a crucial role in the defense of the city.

Today, the Palais des Gouverneurs stands as a symbol of Bastia's resilience and rich history. Its walls tell stories of governance, conflict, and transformation, making it an essential destination for anyone seeking to understand the cultural and historical fabric of Corsica. Whether you're exploring its grand halls, delving into its dark prison cells, or simply admiring its architectural beauty, the Palais des Gouverneurs offers a fascinating journey through time.