In the heart of Beauvais, nestled at the foot of the majestic cathedral, lies the Musée départemental de l'Oise, a treasure trove of history and art waiting to be discovered. Housed in the ancient episcopal palace, this museum is not just a repository of art but a testament to the rich and tumultuous history of the region.
The Musée départemental de l'Oise is set within buildings that date back to the 12th century, constructed on the remnants of the Gallo-Roman ramparts of the city. In 1305, following a significant riot in the city, the French king ordered the citizens of Beauvais to compensate Simon de Nesle, the episcopal lord. With this indemnity, Simon de Nesle built a fortified gatehouse flanked by twin towers, giving the museum its distinctive medieval appearance.
Inside, visitors can marvel at the 14th-century porter's lodge adorned with musical mermaids on the ground floor and fragments of ancient paving on the first floor. The northern tower's walls are covered in graffiti, a poignant reminder of its past as a prison. The southern tower houses a low room that was once a storeroom. In the early 16th century, Bishop Louis de Villiers de L'Isle-Adam reconstructed the main building in a Renaissance style while preserving its Gothic features. He added windows, a spiral staircase turret capped with a pepperpot and a bell tower, giving the monument its current appearance, which has been maintained through 19th-century restorations.
During the Empire in 1811, the prefecture moved into the building, which was later returned to the bishop in 1823 under the Restoration. In 1848, the building became a courthouse. The museum, established in 1912, suffered significant damage during World War II bombings, leading to the near-total destruction of its archaeological, geological, and regional art collections. The surviving works were temporarily housed in the attic of the former episcopal palace.
In 1973, following the relocation of the judiciary to a new courthouse, the department reclaimed the buildings and embarked on an extensive restoration and renovation program led by architect Jean-Pierre Paquet. The work was completed in June 1981, culminating in the opening of a new museographic center. However, structural issues forced the museum to close in 1997, and it was not reopened to the public until January 25, 2015.
The Musée départemental de l'Oise currently showcases a significant portion of its 19th-century collection, featuring works from various artistic movements of that era. Among the highlights is The Enlistment of Volunteers by Thomas Couture and paintings by renowned artists such as Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, Théodore Chassériau, Joseph-Nicolas Robert-Fleury, Hippolyte Flandrin, Gustave Doré, Camille Corot, Alfred Sisley, Ker-Xavier Roussel, Henri-Eugène Le Sidaner, Edouard Vuillard, and Victor Dupont.
The museum's collection of ancient art includes works from the Italian and French schools of the 17th and 18th centuries, featuring artists such as Baciccio, Giuseppe Bazzani, Il Morazzone, Leonardo Coccorante, Gaspare Diziani, Nicola Maria Rossi, Quentin Varin, Claude Vignon, Charles Le Brun, Sébastien Bourdon, and Jean Barbault. Additionally, the museum houses a collection of ceramics spanning from the 16th to the 20th century. Noteworthy in the sculpture collection is the 17th-century marble funerary sculpture of Charles de Fresnoy, attributed to Michel Bourdin the Younger.
Modern art is well-represented at the Musée départemental de l'Oise, with works by Raoul Dufy, Henri Le Fauconnier, Félix Vallotton, Francis Picabia, Jean Dupas, Tristan Klingsor, Robert Lotiron, and Zoum Walter. The museum also features a staircase decorated by Maurice Denis, known as The Golden Age. Additionally, the dining room is adorned in Art Nouveau style by the Liège artist Gustave Serrurier-Bovy, with ceramics by Auguste Delaherche. Art Deco is represented by Tamara de Lempicka's Round Madonna.
The museum has received significant donations, including the Boudot-Lamotte collection from the artist's daughter. Maurice Boudot-Lamotte (1878-1958) was both a painter and an art collector, and his collection includes works by his friend, the Fauvist painter Victor Dupont. In 1997, the museum received an important donation of works by Jean Lambert-Rucki from the artist's daughters.
Over the years, the Musée départemental de l'Oise has hosted numerous temporary exhibitions, showcasing a wide range of artistic styles and periods. Recent exhibitions include Heures italiennes: Treasures of Italian Painting in Picardy in 2017, which was awarded the National Exhibition of Interest label by the French Ministry of Culture, and André Metthey: The Quest for Fire and Color in 2022.
With its rich history, diverse collections, and stunning setting, the Musée départemental de l'Oise offers a captivating journey through time and art. Whether you're a history enthusiast, an art lover, or simply looking for a cultural experience, this museum is a must-visit destination in Beauvais.
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