Hermitage of Santa María la Antigua

The Hermitage of Santa María la Antigua, also known locally as Ermita de Santa María la Antigua, is a hidden gem nestled in the Carabanchel district of Madrid, Spain. This charming hermitage, with its rich history and unique architectural style, offers visitors a glimpse into the medieval past of the region. Built in the 13th century, the Hermitage of Santa María la Antigua is the oldest Mudejar-style hermitage in the Community of Madrid and the only one that remains intact to this day.

The Historical Significance

The origins of the Hermitage of Santa María la Antigua date back to the 13th century, although some elements of the structure hint at an even earlier, 12th-century foundation. The hermitage was initially constructed in the Romanesque-Mudejar style, a fusion of Romanesque and Moorish architectural elements. It served as the parish church for the original municipality of Carabanchel, a role it maintained until the 16th century when the area was reorganized into the towns of Carabanchel Alto and Carabanchel Bajo.

The hermitage's historical importance is further underscored by its association with San Isidro, the patron saint of Madrid. According to tradition, San Isidro performed two miracles here: the miracle of the wolf and the miracle of the loaf of bread. These legends have made the hermitage a place of pilgrimage over the centuries, particularly after San Isidro's canonization in 1622.

Architectural Marvels

The Hermitage of Santa María la Antigua boasts a rectangular floor plan measuring 12.20 meters in length and 9.85 meters in width. Originally, it likely consisted of a single nave, with the two side naves being later additions. The structure's most striking features include its well-preserved 13th-century apse, tower, and southern wall.

The apse, oriented to the east as was customary for medieval religious buildings, features a semi-circular design with a quarter-sphere vault. The exterior is adorned with simple decorative elements, such as brick corbels supporting the eaves and a central window with a horseshoe arch. The main body of the hermitage displays a similar construction style, with alternating layers of masonry and brick.

The Tower

One of the most distinctive elements of the Hermitage of Santa María la Antigua is its slender, rectangular tower. Standing at 20 meters high, the tower is divided into two sections. The lower section is solid and constructed from the same materials as the main body of the hermitage, while the upper section is hollow and made entirely of brick. The upper section features six openings, housing two bells from the early 20th century. Originally, the tower did not have a staircase; the current staircase on the north side was added during a later renovation.

Interior and Decorative Elements

Inside the hermitage, visitors can find remnants of medieval wall paintings depicting scenes from the life of San Isidro and various geometric patterns in red and black. These frescoes provide a rare glimpse into the artistic traditions of the time. Additionally, a wooden structure along the western wall showcases paintings illustrating the life of San Isidro. In 2020, restoration work uncovered more paintings, this time depicting the life of Mary Magdalene, dating back to the 15th century.

The hermitage also houses a tempera painting of the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Castile, adding to its historical and cultural significance. The original medieval carpentry work has been preserved, further enhancing the authenticity and charm of the interior.

Modern-Day Preservation

Despite being declared a Cultural Heritage Site in 1981, the Hermitage of Santa María la Antigua has faced challenges in terms of preservation. Vandalism and neglect have taken their toll on the structure. However, efforts have been made to restore and maintain the hermitage. In 2002, a significant restoration project was undertaken to revive its historical splendor, spearheaded by the parish priest of the Church of San Sebastián Mártir and local council member Carlos Izquierdo.

Today, the Hermitage of Santa María la Antigua stands as a testament to the rich history and architectural heritage of Carabanchel. While it may not be as well-known as other landmarks in Madrid, it offers visitors a unique and intimate experience, transporting them back to a time when the region was a crossroads of cultures and traditions.

Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply looking for a tranquil spot to reflect and appreciate the past, the Hermitage of Santa María la Antigua is a must-visit destination. Its enduring beauty and historical significance make it a true treasure of Madrid, waiting to be discovered by those who seek to explore beyond the city's more famous attractions.