In the heart of Chioggia, a charming town often referred to as Little Venice, stands the Chiesa di San Francesco, a testament to centuries of history and devotion. This church, also known as San Francesco Vecchio or inside the walls, is a beacon of tranquility and architectural beauty, inviting visitors to step back in time and explore its rich past.
The story of Chiesa di San Francesco begins in the mid-13th century when the Franciscan presence was first established in Chioggia. As the community grew, the need for a larger space became apparent, leading to the construction of a new convent outside the city walls in the early 14th century. However, the construction was abruptly halted by the War of Chioggia and later by a decree from the Venetian Senate, which prohibited building outside the city limits. The Franciscans continued to expand their original convent within the city until the restrictions were lifted in the 1430s, allowing them to resume construction and eventually relocate.
In 1512, the convent transformed into a monastery with the arrival of Cistercian nuns, many of whom came from the ancient city monastery of Santa Caterina. The nuns, who lived under a vow of enclosure, flourished in number, reaching around fifty by the mid-18th century. An interesting anecdote from this period involves Carlo Goldoni, the famous playwright, who lived across from the church. Goldoni developed a close relationship with the nuns, exchanging sonnets and discourses for sweet treats.
The monastery's life took a turn in 1805 when the Austrian government ordered the nuns to relocate to the Convent of Santa Caterina to repurpose the building as barracks. The church, originally built in 1385, underwent significant renovations in 1743 under the guidance of Domenico Cestari, who adorned it in the Rococo style. Today, it remains open to the public and serves as a place of worship, especially during the winter months when it hosts daily Mass and Eucharistic adoration.
The façade of Chiesa di San Francesco is a striking sight, standing 14 meters tall and adorned with statues crafted from Istrian stone. At the center of the pediment is a statue of Saint Francis, flanked by Saint Anthony of Padua on the left and Saint Bonaventure on the right. The bell tower, a prominent feature of the church, dates back to the early 1600s. Its base reflects the late Gothic style, while the dome, added in 1743, complements the overall aesthetic. The bell tower houses four bells, adding a melodious charm to the church's presence.
The campanile, or bell tower, stands proudly at 19 meters, a testament to the architectural prowess of the early 17th century. Its Gothic base is characterized by an acute arch, offering a glimpse into the stylistic transitions of the time. The dome of the campanile, added during the Rococo renovations, enhances its elegance. Visitors often admire the harmonious blend of styles that the campanile represents, making it a focal point of the church's exterior.
Stepping inside the Chiesa di San Francesco, visitors are greeted by a rectangular nave measuring 10 meters wide, 32 meters long, and 13.7 meters high. The interior is home to several altars, each with its own unique charm and artistry. The Altare di San Gaetano Thiene features a 20th-century wooden statue, while the Altare dell'Immacolata boasts a marble statue by sculptor Pietro Baratta. The main altar is a masterpiece of polychrome marble, complete with a 17th-century tabernacle and a niche for the Eucharist, crowned by a small dome.
Other notable altars include the Altare di San Francesco, with a statue by Josef Hermann Runggaldier, and the Altare di San Nicola Tolentino, showcasing another 20th-century wooden statue. The vaulted ceiling is adorned with stuccoes by Giacomo Gaspari and paintings by Michele Schiavoni, depicting scenes from the lives of Saint Francis and Saint Benedict. Above the side entrance hangs an 18th-century canvas portraying Saint Francis in ecstasy, originally from the now-dismantled church of Nostra Signora delle Stigmate.
The Chiesa di San Francesco is not just a place of worship but a confluence of art, history, and spirituality. The church's floor features several tombstones dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries, including the central tombstone bearing the Cestari family crest and another marking the resting place of Bishop Pasquale Grassi, who served Chioggia from 1618 to 1636. These historical elements provide a tangible connection to the past, allowing visitors to walk in the footsteps of those who shaped the church's legacy.
In conclusion, the Chiesa di San Francesco in Chioggia is a captivating destination for anyone interested in history, art, and architecture. Its storied past, combined with its stunning design and serene atmosphere, makes it a must-visit site for travelers exploring the enchanting town of Chioggia. Whether you're drawn by its historical significance or its artistic beauty, this church offers a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Italian heritage.
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