Champmol, or the Chartreuse de Champmol, is a captivating historical site located just outside the bustling city of Dijon, France. Originally established as a Carthusian monastery in the late 14th century, it was founded by Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, as a testament to both his piety and his political ambitions. Today, while much of the original structure no longer stands, the site remains a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts and art lovers alike.
The story of Champmol begins in 1378 when Philip the Bold acquired land at a location known as La Motte de Champmol. His vision was to create a burial site that could rival the grandeur of the French kings' necropolis at Saint-Denis. The construction of the monastery was a grand affair, employing hundreds of craftsmen and artists from various disciplines. Under the guidance of architect Drouet de Dammartin, the first stone was laid in 1383, and the church was consecrated just five years later in 1388.
Champmol quickly became a center of artistic innovation. The monastery attracted some of the most talented artists of the time, including the sculptor Claus Sluter, who was responsible for the iconic Well of Moses. This masterpiece, originally located in the grand cloister, features a striking calvary and served as a source of inspiration for generations of sculptors. The site also boasted stunning altarpieces by artists like Jacques de Baerze and Melchior Broederlam, whose works were transported and completed in Ypres before being installed at Champmol.
Philip the Bold's establishment of Champmol was not merely an act of devotion; it was a strategic move to assert the independence and significance of the Burgundian state. By choosing Dijon as the site of his necropolis, Philip was making a statement about the centrality of Burgundy in his realm. His successors, including John the Fearless and Philip the Good, continued to enhance the monastery, commissioning works that reflected the power and prestige of the Burgundian court.
Despite its initial splendor, the fate of Champmol changed dramatically over the centuries. The French Revolution brought about the closure of the monastery, and its buildings were sold off in 1791. Many of the artworks were relocated to museums, including the Louvre and the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon. In the 19th century, the site was repurposed as a psychiatric hospital, a function it still serves today. The phrase aller à la Chartreuse in Dijon now colloquially refers to being hospitalized for psychiatric care.
Visitors to the site today can still explore some of the surviving architectural elements of Champmol. The Well of Moses, although now missing its original crucifixion scene, remains an awe-inspiring example of medieval sculpture. The portal of the chapel, which once housed the tombs of Philip the Bold and John the Fearless, is another significant remnant that offers a glimpse into the site's historical grandeur.
Walking through Champmol is like stepping back in time. The site’s transformation from a religious sanctuary to a modern medical facility is a testament to its resilience and adaptability. While the original monastery may be gone, the spirit of artistic and historical significance endures, making Champmol a unique destination that continues to tell the story of Burgundy’s illustrious past.
Whether you're a history buff, an art aficionado, or simply a curious traveler, Champmol promises a journey through a rich tapestry of history and culture. Its legacy as a center of religious devotion, artistic excellence, and political ambition makes it a must-visit site for anyone exploring the heart of Burgundy.
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