In the historic heart of Évora, Portugal, lies a hidden gem that whispers tales of an illustrious past: the Convento dos Lóios. This remarkable structure, also known as the Convent of São João Evangelista, is a testament to Portugal’s rich history and architectural evolution. Nestled amidst the charming streets of Évora, a UNESCO World Heritage site, the convent invites visitors to step back in time and explore its storied halls.
The Convento dos Lóios was founded in 1487 by Rodrigo de Melo, the first Count of Olivença, under the reign of King João II. Built on the remnants of a medieval castle, the convent’s origins are steeped in the dramatic history of Évora. The site was once part of a castle that bore witness to the tumultuous Crisis of 1383-1385, leaving it in ruins. Rodrigo de Melo, a prominent figure and governor of Tangier, envisioned a new purpose for this historic site, transforming it into a place of spiritual reflection and familial legacy.
In 1491, the convent was near completion, and its church was consecrated, becoming a pantheon for the Melo family. The convent complex expanded in 1498, incorporating the neighboring Colégio dos Meninos do Coro da Sé de Évora. However, the devastating earthquake of 1755 left its mark, prompting significant restoration efforts in the 18th century. Despite these challenges, the convent endured, retaining its historical essence.
The Convento dos Lóios is an architectural marvel, showcasing a blend of Gothic-Manueline and Renaissance styles. The rectangular complex centers around a two-story cloister. The lower level, with its Gothic-Manueline arches, contrasts beautifully with the Renaissance features of the upper floor. The convent’s church is a masterpiece of Manueline architecture, boasting a nave with five rectangular sections and a stunning ribbed vault ceiling.
The walls of the church are adorned with exquisite azulejos, or ceramic tiles, from the 17th and 18th centuries, adding a vibrant layer of artistry to the sacred space. The polygonal apse is particularly noteworthy, featuring a complex web of interlacing ribs and more azulejos, offering a visual feast for visitors.
The Chapter House, attributed to Diogo de Arruda, is another highlight. Its entrance is marked by a Mudejar-style portal from the early 16th century, a perfect example of regional Manueline-Mudejar architecture. The portal features a medallion commemorating Rodrigo de Melo’s participation in the Battle of Azamor, a nod to the building’s historical significance.
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With the dissolution of male religious orders in 1834, the convent was left uninhabited for many years. In 1937, it found new life as the headquarters of the Southern Monuments Directorate, and by 1944, it housed the Évora District Archive. However, its most transformative change came in 1957 when it began its conversion into the Pousada dos Lóios, a luxury hotel, under the guidance of architect Rui Ângelo do Couto. Officially opened in 1963, the Pousada retained much of the convent’s original structure, seamlessly blending history with modern hospitality.
Today, the Pousada dos Lóios offers a unique experience, allowing guests to stay within its historic walls. The original monastic cells have been thoughtfully transformed into 31 guest rooms, with two larger suites, including the opulent Presidential Suite, adorned with frescoes. The ground floor houses the former monks’ refectory, now a dining area, and the convent’s old kitchen, which serves as a cozy lounge.
Visitors can ascend the marble staircase to the Sala do Império, once the Prior’s Room, featuring mural paintings by Francisco de Figueiredo. This room is adorned with portraits of prominent figures from Portuguese literature and history, including the convent’s founder, adding to the rich tapestry of stories that the building holds.
The Pousada also boasts a small pool, bar, and terrace, offering modern comforts amid its historical ambiance. Dining at the Pousada is a treat, with meals served around the cloister, providing a serene and picturesque setting.
The Convento dos Lóios is more than just a historical building; it is a living testament to the resilience and beauty of Portuguese heritage. Its walls have witnessed centuries of change, from medieval battles to modern restoration, each layer adding to its rich narrative. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, an architecture admirer, or simply a traveler seeking unique experiences, the Convento dos Lóios promises an unforgettable journey through time, right in the heart of Évora.
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