Igreja de São Francisco

In the heart of Évora, Portugal, lies a gem of Gothic-Manueline architecture, the Igreja de São Francisco. This magnificent church, located in Praça 1º de Maio, stands as a testament to Portugal's rich history and architectural prowess. The Igreja de São Francisco is not just a place of worship; it is a historical monument that has witnessed significant events and transformations over the centuries.

The Historical Significance

The origins of the Igreja de São Francisco date back to the 13th century when it was founded as the first house of the Franciscan Order in Portugal. Initially, the church had three naves with interconnecting chapels, adhering to the Franciscan Rule. This early structure hosted numerous important ceremonies, including the wedding of King Pedro I and Constança Manuel. However, the church we see today emerged from a significant reconstruction between 1480 and 1510, led by master masons Martim Lourenço and Pero de Trilho. This period marked the transformation of the church into a grand Gothic-Manueline temple, featuring a single nave covered by a daring ribbed vault reaching 24 meters in height.

The Royal Connection

The Igreja de São Francisco enjoyed its golden years when King Afonso V's court began residing in the convent during their stays in Évora. Consequently, the church was elevated to the status of a Royal Chapel, adorned with regal emblems of King João II and King Manuel I. The opulence of this era earned the convent the title Convento de Ouro (Golden Convent), reflecting the wealth and grandeur bestowed upon it by the Royal Family. Despite the Franciscan ideals of poverty and simplicity, the church flourished with rich decorations and became a symbol of royal patronage and power.

Architectural Marvels

The Igreja de São Francisco is a masterpiece of Gothic-Manueline architecture, evident in its battlements, towers, and the stunning ribbed vault of the nave. The extensive nave houses ten lateral chapels, each adorned with gilded and polychrome altarpieces from the 18th century and stuccoes from the 19th century. Some of these altarpieces were salvaged from the ruins of the Convento da Graça. The Baptistery features a baptismal font from the old church of São Pedro and a unique cork representation of Christ's Baptism in the Jordan, originating from the former convent of Santa Mónica.

The Capela-Mor

The main altar of the Capela-Mor replaced the Renaissance polyptych of the Convento de São Francisco, now dispersed among various museums. The current altar, crafted in marble in the second half of the 18th century, contrasts with the Manueline ambiance. It showcases large statues of Saint Francis and Saint Dominic, typical of Franciscan churches. The chapel's walls feature two exquisite Renaissance marble windows, from which the Royal Family once observed religious services. A grand 18th-century pipe organ by Pascoal Caetano Oldovini and the monks' choir stalls, decorated with representations of various Franciscan saints, further enhance the chapel's splendor. The collateral altars also display several Renaissance paintings.

The Capela da Ordem Terceira

The Capela da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco da Penitência is particularly majestic, combining the splendor of Joanine Baroque gilded woodwork with tiles and paintings depicting Franciscan themes. This chapel, belonging to the lay Third Order of Saint Francis, is a harmonious blend of artistic magnificence and spiritual devotion.

The Capela de São Joãozinho

The Capela de São Joãozinho, a small Renaissance chapel with a ribbed vault, was once independent of the Franciscan church. Located on the north side of the transept, it served as the original headquarters of the Santa Casa da Misericórdia of Évora. Beneath its portal lies a 16th-century marble sculpture of the Annunciation Angel.

The Sala do Capítulo

The Sala do Capítulo, one of the few remnants of the conventual part, was transformed in the 19th century into the Chapel of Senhor dos Passos da Casa dos Ossos. This chapel houses a revered image of Christ's suffering on the way to Calvary. The niche displaying the image is a model of the Capela-Mor of the Sé de Évora, built by order of architect J. F. Ludwig, known as Ludovice, in the 18th century. To the right of the niche is a painting by Francisco de Herrera the Elder, depicting the Tears of Saint Peter.

The Capela dos Ossos

One of the most curious and iconic features of the Igreja de São Francisco is the Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones). Constructed in the 16th and 17th centuries on the site of the friars' original dormitory, this chapel was created by three Franciscan monks to encourage reflection on the transience of human life. The chapel's walls and part of its vaults are covered with thousands of human bones from the church's and other local cemeteries. The chilling inscription above the chapel's entrance reads: Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos (We bones that are here, await yours).

The Igreja de São Francisco is not only a place of immense historical and architectural value but also a repository of religious art and cultural heritage. Its chapels and dependencies, adorned with statues, paintings, and altarpieces, offer a glimpse into Portugal's rich artistic traditions. A visit to this magnificent church is a journey through time, revealing the splendor and spirituality of a bygone era.