Palazzo Schifanoia, nestled in the heart of Ferrara, Italy, is a historical gem that beckons visitors with its rich history and splendid architecture. Built in 1385, this magnificent palace was initially designed as a retreat for the Este family, a place where they could escape the tedium of court life. The very name Schifanoia translates to escape from boredom, reflecting its purpose as a haven of leisure and relaxation.
Palazzo Schifanoia was commissioned by Alberto V d'Este in the late 14th century. Initially, it was a relatively modest structure, intended as a place for rest and recreation. However, under the patronage of Borso d'Este, the palace underwent significant transformations. Borso, who was elevated to Duke of Modena and Reggio Emilia in 1452 and later became the first Duke of Ferrara in 1471, sought to celebrate his achievements and the grandeur of his rule through art and architecture.
The palace's architecture reflects its evolution over the centuries. Originally constructed as a quadrangular building without lateral wings, it was designed to mimic the suburban villas of ancient Rome. The main façade and the garden-facing façade were both intended to evoke the elegance and serenity of classical architecture. The architect Pietro Benvenuto degli Ordini was tasked with constructing a ducal apartment on the first floor, complete with a grand hall for receiving ambassadors and delegations.
The facade of Palazzo Schifanoia is a testament to the artistic and architectural prowess of its time. The grand marble portal, dating back to 1470, was recently attributed to Ambrogio di Giacomo da Milano and Antonio di Gregorio, based on designs by Pietro Benvenuto degli Ordini. Above the arched doorway, a large Este coat of arms and a unicorn, one of Borso's heraldic symbols, are prominently displayed. The traces of paint suggest that the coat of arms was once vividly polychrome, adding to the palace's visual splendor.
One of the most remarkable features of Palazzo Schifanoia is the Salone dei Mesi, or the Hall of the Months. This grand hall is adorned with one of the most important fresco cycles of the 15th century. The project was overseen by the court astrologer and librarian, Pellegrino Prisciani, and executed by renowned painters of the Ferrarese school, including Baldassarre d'Este, Ercole de' Roberti, and Francesco del Cossa.
The frescoes in the Salone dei Mesi are a visual celebration of the months of the year, each represented by a zodiac sign and various allegories depicting seasonal activities. The lower band of the frescoes showcases episodes from the life of Borso d'Este, while the upper band features the triumphs of the gods. Although only the months from March to September remain intact, they provide a fascinating glimpse into the artistic and cultural achievements of the Este court.
Another highlight of Palazzo Schifanoia is the Sala degli Stucchi, also known as the Hall of Virtues. This room boasts an exquisite coffered ceiling and a wooden and stucco frieze created by sculptor Domenico di Paris and painted by Buongiovanni da Geminiano around 1467. The frieze depicts the cardinal virtues, excluding Justice, and the theological virtues, along with various emblems and symbols associated with Borso d'Este. This room was used for ducal audiences and was designed to celebrate the duke's greatness.
Despite its initial grandeur, Palazzo Schifanoia experienced periods of decline and neglect. In the 16th century, the gardens were expanded in the late Renaissance style, but by the 17th century, the palace began to deteriorate. Many rooms were subdivided, and the grand staircase leading to the gardens was demolished. The once-magnificent gardens fell into disrepair, and parts of the palace were repurposed for industrial use, including a paper mill in the 18th century.
The Salone dei Mesi was completely plastered over, obscuring the frescoes for centuries. It wasn't until the 19th century that these Renaissance masterpieces were rediscovered, and efforts were made to restore the palace to its former glory. The removal of the gray plaster revealed the stunning frescoes, and the palace was eventually transformed into a Renaissance museum.
Today, Palazzo Schifanoia is part of the Civic Museums of Ancient Art in Ferrara. The museum tour begins in the oldest wing of the palace, which houses various collections of paintings, bronzes, ivories, wooden inlays, and ceramics. One room is dedicated to a collection of ceramics amassed by Giovanni Pasetti and acquired by the museum in 1935. The 14th and 15th-century rooms contain collections of ancient coins and medals, including those minted by Pisanello and other artists to commemorate members of the Este family.
Following the 2012 Emilia earthquake, the palace suffered damage, and only the Salone dei Mesi and the Sala degli Stucchi remained accessible until the end of 2017. A comprehensive restoration project began in early 2018, leading to the reopening of the Salone dei Mesi and the Sala degli Stucchi on June 2, 2020. The restoration of the palace and the reinstallation of the museum collections were completed in October 2021.
Palazzo Schifanoia stands as a testament to the artistic and cultural achievements of the Este court. Its walls, adorned with stunning frescoes and intricate stucco work, tell the story of a bygone era of grandeur and opulence. A visit to this historic palace offers a unique glimpse into the rich history and artistic heritage of Ferrara, making it a must-see destination for history enthusiasts and art lovers alike.
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