Church of San Bartolomé

The Church of San Bartolomé, known locally as Iglesia de San Bartolomé, stands as a testament to the rich historical tapestry and architectural splendor of Logroño, Spain. As the oldest church in the city, its origins trace back to the 12th century, embodying a blend of Romanesque and Gothic styles that narrate centuries of religious and cultural evolution.

A Journey Through Time

The construction of the Church of San Bartolomé began in the 12th century, during an era when Romanesque architecture was prominent. This early style is evident in the church's apse and the initial stages of its tower. As the 13th century unfolded, the burgeoning Gothic style left its mark on the church, most notably in the grand ogival portal adorned with intricate sculptures. These sculptures, a captivating blend of Romanesque and Gothic artistry, depict scenes from the life of Saint Bartholomew and other biblical narratives, offering a visual storytelling experience that has captivated visitors for centuries.

The Majestic Portal

One of the most striking features of the Church of San Bartolomé is its elaborate Gothic portal, which dates back to the 14th century. This portal, with its rich sculptural decorations, serves as a visual feast for visitors. The scenes depicted in the portal are divided into 19 panels, each narrating different episodes from the life and martyrdom of Saint Bartholomew. On the left side, the panels illustrate the saint's miraculous acts and his eventual martyrdom, while the right side portrays the discovery of his relics. These detailed carvings offer a glimpse into the artistic and religious fervor of the medieval period.

The Tympanum

Above the portal, the tympanum features a depiction of Christ the Redeemer flanked by the Virgin Mary and Saint John. This scene, though partially obscured by later architectural modifications, remains a poignant representation of medieval religious art. In the 16th century, the stonemason Pedro de Acha reformed the choir area, adding a small window to allow light into the church and altering the original composition of the tympanum. Despite these changes, the tympanum continues to be a significant element of the church's façade.

Architectural Marvels Inside

Stepping inside the Church of San Bartolomé, visitors are greeted by a basilical layout comprising three naves separated by octagonal pillars. The naves are covered by ribbed vaults, a hallmark of Gothic architecture. The church's Romanesque apse stands out, especially since it lacks a retablo (altarpiece). Historically, the church had an 18th-century retablo, painted in white and gold, which bore a resemblance to the one in the Church of the Holy Martyrs in Calahorra.

The Funeral Chapel

On the southern side of the church lies a funeral chapel that houses two Gothic-style stone sarcophagi. These tombs, believed to belong to knights from the Márquez family (as indicated by an inscription from 1341) or the Beláiz family, were likely added after the initial construction of the church. The sarcophagi rest on lion statues, and their lids feature effigies of the knights, offering a glimpse into the funerary practices of the medieval period.

The Tower’s Tumultuous History

The church's tower has witnessed its fair share of turmoil. During the French siege of Logroño in 1521, the tower, located near the city's defensive walls, suffered damage from enemy artillery. It was later reconstructed in a Mudéjar style, influenced by Aragonese architecture, using brick. In the First Carlist War, the tower served as a site for an optical telegraph, underscoring its strategic importance over the centuries.

Stone Mason Marks

On the exterior of the Church of San Bartolomé, one can find various stone mason marks, a total of nine distinct marks of seven different types. Among these is a sundial, carved into a reused stone block, offering a fascinating insight into the craftsmanship and daily life of the medieval period.

From Sacred Space to Secular Uses

Over the centuries, the Church of San Bartolomé has undergone numerous transformations, both in its structure and its uses. In the 19th century, during the period of disentailment, the church was repurposed as a wood store and coal yard. It also served as a military hospital, workshop, and stable at various times. Remarkably, despite these secular uses, the church has retained its historical and architectural integrity.

The Surrounding Plaza

The plaza in front of the Church of San Bartolomé has also evolved over time. In the Middle Ages and early Renaissance, it was part of the route for bullfights and encierros (running of the bulls). Until the late 19th century, the plaza was accessible only from the Caballerías and Herrerías streets, creating an intimate space for theatrical performances, other spectacles, and a market that operated until 1930. Today, the plaza offers a serene setting for visitors to reflect on the church's historical significance.

In conclusion, the Church of San Bartolomé in Logroño is not just a place of worship; it is a living monument to the city's rich history and cultural heritage. Its architectural splendor, historical significance, and the stories etched into its walls make it an unmissable destination for anyone visiting this beautiful Spanish city.