Church of Santa María de Palacio

The Church of Santa María de Palacio, known locally as Iglesia de Santa María de Palacio, stands as a monumental testament to the rich historical and architectural heritage of Logroño, in the heart of Spain's La Rioja region. This splendid religious edifice, also referred to as the Imperial Church of Santa María de Palacio, owes its name to a significant donation by Alfonso VII in 1130, who offered his palace to establish the first foundation of the Order of the Holy Sepulchre in the Kingdom of Castile. This royal favor bestowed upon the church the distinguished title of Imperial.

The Origins and Evolution

The construction of the Church of Santa María de Palacio began in the 12th century and extended into the 13th century. The original structure featured a strikingly unique octagonal Gothic dome, resembling an imperial crown, which remains one of the most iconic elements of Logroño's skyline. The church has undergone numerous renovations throughout its history, making it a fascinating blend of architectural styles.

The oldest parts of the church are the last three sections, constructed in the 13th century in Gothic style. Between the 15th and 16th centuries, the transept and the apse were reconstructed with clustered pilasters and pointed arches supporting ribbed and tierceron vaults. In the 18th century, further modifications were made to reinforce the interior structure, ensuring it could bear the weight of the exterior pyramidal spire, crafted in Baroque style.

Architectural Marvels

The Church of Santa María de Palacio features three naves ending in apsidal chapels, an extension added in later reforms. The octagonal dome over the transept extends outward into a Gothic-style pyramidal tower. Inside, the main altarpiece, created by Arnao de Bruselas, is a highlight, alongside several significant sculptures, including a Romanesque statue of Our Lady of the Ancient, a Gothic Virgin of the Ebro, and a Flemish-origin Immaculate Conception. The choir, dating back to the late 17th century, boasts nineteen seats adorned with Corinthian columns and figures of Saint Barnabas, the patron saint of Logroño, and Saint Matthew, in whose honor the Grape Harvest Festival is celebrated.

The Facade and Entrances

The current main entrance is located on the south side, at the foot of the right nave, constructed in 1627 by Juan de la Riba. This Baroque-style doorway features a lintel flanked by columns and a statue of the Assumption, accompanied by two imperial coats of arms. On the opposite side of the church, along Rua Vella, there is another entrance dedicated to Saint John.

The Iconic Cuculla

The cuculla, or lantern, is the church's most distinctive feature, constructed in the 13th century. This octagonal lantern, supported by squinches, culminates in a slender eight-sided spire divided into several sections by friezes and imposts. The lower part features projecting dormer windows with pointed arches and decorative elements such as crochets and pinnacles. In 1671, concerns about the cuculla's stability led to considerations of its demolition. However, after extensive studies, the church was reinforced, though the spire lost its lower windows, reducing the interior light and view of the dome. The restoration was completed in 1750.

The Tower

The church's tower, built around 1550 by Juan de Acha, is shorter than the Gothic spire despite later additions of a belfry. The tower features eight semicircular openings, a shallow vault, and a circular temple with small columns and a dome at its corners.

The Cloister

The original cloister, rectangular and austere in the Cistercian style, has only its west side preserved from the original structure, with the rest dating back to the 17th century. Accessible from the left nave or through the Chapel of Our Lady of the Ancient, the cloister is a serene space that once housed the Holy Sepulchre. The Romanesque statue of Our Lady of the Ancient, with Eastern Roman influences, is now displayed in a Baroque altarpiece from the 17th-18th centuries.

The Retable

The main altarpiece, crafted by Italian artists, was initially intended for the Co-Cathedral of Santa María de la Redonda but was rejected due to the donor Arnao de Bruselas' coats of arms. It was subsequently given to the Church of Santa María de Palacio. This Mannerist triptych retable is relatively restrained for its style, with Corinthian columns separating the central sections. The retable is divided into several levels, each depicting various biblical scenes and figures, culminating in a Calvary scene at the top.

The Organ

The church's organ has a somewhat mysterious history, with its exact date of construction unknown. It was electrified by the Spanish Organ Company (O.E.S.A.), which unfortunately replaced the original mechanisms with electric cables, significantly altering its sound. The facade of the organ was also modified and elevated from its original position. Despite these changes and years of neglect, the organ remains a notable feature, albeit in need of restoration.

In conclusion, the Church of Santa María de Palacio is not just a religious monument but a symbol of Logroño's rich history and architectural evolution. Its walls and spires tell stories of centuries past, making it an essential visit for anyone exploring this charming Spanish city.