Béguinage of Mechelen

Step into the enchanting world of the Béguinage of Mechelen, a hidden gem nestled within the historic city of Mechelen, Belgium. Known locally as Groot Begijnhof Mechelen, this captivating quarter is a testament to the rich history and cultural heritage of the region. Wandering through its quaint streets and charming courtyards, you can almost hear the whispers of the past, echoing the lives of the beguines who once called this place home.

The Origins of the Béguinage

The Béguinage of Mechelen was established in the 13th century, during a time of significant religious reform within the Roman Catholic Church. This movement, spearheaded by Pope Gregory VII, inspired a group of pious women in Mechelen to seek a life devoted to spiritual pursuits, charity, and community. Initially referred to as pious women or holy women, these individuals eventually became known as beguines. They lived together in small, unorganized groups, often in their parents' homes or in communal houses within the city.

By 1245, the beguines had grown in number and had acquired a plot of land from the local dean. Here, they built a chapel dedicated to Saint Catherine and established a small community, later known as the Klein Begijnhof. Their numbers continued to swell, and in 1259, they petitioned the Bishop of Cambrai for permission to establish a larger, more organized community outside the city walls. This request was granted, and thus began the construction of what would become the Groot Begijnhof Mechelen.

The Flourishing Community

Located in the northern part of Mechelen, between the Antwerp Gate and the River Dijle, the Béguinage quickly expanded. By 1276, the beguines had completed the construction of their church, thanks to the generosity of the wife and daughter of Wouter Berthout VI, the Lord of Mechelen. By 1286, the Béguinage was recognized as a separate parish, and under the guidance of Sophie Berthout, who provided the first statutes in 1295, it grew into a thriving, self-sufficient community.

At its peak around 1550, the Béguinage was home to approximately 1,500 beguines and over a hundred convents. The community was a bustling hub of activity, with beguines caring for the elderly and sick, as well as engaging in various crafts and trades to support themselves. However, the Béguinage was not immune to the turmoil of the times. The iconoclasm of 1566 and the subsequent plundering by the soldiers of the Duke of Alva in 1572 caused significant damage. In 1578, the entire Béguinage was set ablaze to prevent attackers from using the houses as cover during an assault on the city.

Rebirth Within the City Walls

Following the destruction, many beguines fled to nearby cities such as Leuven, Brussels, and Antwerp. In 1580, they regrouped in the former Keizershof in the Keizerstraat, but space was limited. The decisions made during the Council of Trent (1545-1565) required religious communities to reside within city walls. Although beguines were technically laywomen, they adhered to this directive and, with the support of King Philip II, acquired the lands of the Baudeloo Abbey's refuge in 1595.

Between 1595 and 1614, the beguines purchased additional land, enclosed it with walls, and constructed two entrance gates. In 1629, they replaced their small chapel with the Begijnhofkerk, a grand church designed in the Baroque style by Jesuit architects Pieter Huyssens and Jacob Franquart. The church, completed in 1647, featured stunning interior decorations by Mechelen sculptor Lucas Faydherbe, a pupil of Rubens. The 17th century saw continued growth and interest in the Béguinage, leading to further expansion and refinement of the buildings.

The Decline and Modern Revival

Despite its earlier prosperity, the Béguinage experienced a gradual decline in the 18th century. By 1720, the number of beguines had dwindled to 700, and by 1800, only 265 remained. The French Revolution brought further challenges, as the Béguinage's properties were transferred to the Commission of Civil Hospitals and Almshouses. Although the Béguinage was not church property, its gates were demolished in 1798, and the church was sold but later repurchased by devout individuals who returned it to the beguines.

In the 20th century, the last two beguines of Mechelen passed away in the late 1980s, marking the end of an era. However, the Béguinage's legacy lives on. In 1998, the Flemish Béguinages, including the Groot Begijnhof Mechelen, were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Over the past 40 years, many houses have been restored and are now privately owned, contributing to the revitalization of the area.

A Stroll Through the Béguinage

Today, visitors can explore the Béguinage of Mechelen and immerse themselves in its serene atmosphere. Begin your journey at the Grote Markt and make your way through the Sint-Katelijnestraat and Kanunnik de Deckerstraat to reach the Klein Begijnhof. Here, you will find preserved gates, charming courtyards, and remnants of an old water pump. The Saint Magdalene Chapel stands opposite the gate, offering a glimpse into the spiritual life of the beguines.

Continue your walk past the Sint-Katelijnekerk and along the Moreelstraat to the Begijnhofkerk and the Groot Begijnhof. The Begijnhofkerk is open to visitors every afternoon except Monday. As you wander through the Krankestraatje, you will encounter a former brewery, now a reminder of the Béguinage's past hospital. The Hoviusstraat, with its beautiful doorframes, round windows, and occasional statues, exudes the authentic Béguinage atmosphere.

Further along, the Fonteinstraatje and Conventstraat lead to the Nonnenstraat, where you can peek into a small courtyard through a modest gate at number 4. The Jesuspoort, with its Gothic column, marks the remnants of the Hof van Fontes, which once extended to the present-day church. This gate is one of the most painted and photographed buildings in Mechelen.

As you pass the church, take a detour through the Krommestraat and into the Twaalf Apostelenstraat. Above house number 13, you will find a sculpture depicting the Last Supper and the twelve apostles, indicating that this was once a convent for twelve impoverished beguines. The Acht Zalighedenstraat, formerly home to the Convent of the Eight Beatitudes, housed eight beguines and was the residence of the artist Albert Geudens for many years.

Conclude your visit by strolling through the Cellebroederstraat, Twaalf Apostelenstraat, Sint Beggastraat, and Begijnenkerkhof to reach the recently restored Cellebroedersklooster. Your journey through the Béguinage of Mechelen will leave you with a profound appreciation for the history, culture, and enduring spirit of this remarkable community.