Saint Waltrude Collegiate Church, known locally as Sint-Waltrudiskerk, stands as a majestic testament to Gothic architecture in the heart of Mons, Belgium. This awe-inspiring edifice, dedicated to Saint Waltrude, the patron saint of the city, has been a focal point of religious and cultural life for centuries. Its towering presence, intricate design, and rich history make it a must-visit for anyone exploring the charming city of Mons.
The origins of Saint Waltrude Collegiate Church date back to the mid-15th century when construction began in 1450. The project was initiated by the chapter of Saint Waltrude, and the construction spanned an impressive 241 years, finally halting in 1691. Despite the lengthy construction period, the church was never fully completed. The original plans, crafted by local architects and the renowned Mathieu de Layens, were adhered to meticulously by successive builders, resulting in the harmonious structure we see today.
The site of the current church has been a place of worship since the 7th century when Saint Waltrude founded the first hermitage on this very spot. The church's layout is in the shape of a Latin cross, measuring 115 meters in length and 32 meters in width, with a vaulted ceiling reaching a height of 24.5 meters. The choir is surrounded by an ambulatory and 15 radiating chapels, constructed from sandstone, blue stone, and brick.
Originally, a towering spire of 190 meters was planned, and construction began in 1548. However, the building efforts ceased in 1620, leaving the church unfinished. The saying It's the tower of Saint Waltrude, we will never see the end! has since become proverbial among the people of Mons, symbolizing anything that takes an eternity to complete.
During the French Revolution, the church was repurposed as a stable and narrowly escaped demolition. In 1803, it was restored to its religious function, becoming the principal parish church of Mons, replacing the demolished Saint-Germain Church.
The story of Saint Waltrude Collegiate Church is closely intertwined with the noble chapter of canonesses. The religious community, founded by Saint Waltrude in the 7th century, evolved over the centuries. By the 10th to 13th centuries, the nuns had secularized, forming a chapter of noble canonesses. Admission to the chapter required noble lineage, with increasingly stringent requirements over time, culminating in the 16th century when Empress Maria Theresa of Austria mandated proof of sixteen quarters of nobility.
The canonesses enjoyed numerous privileges and substantial prebends, enabling them to finance the construction of the church. Although the chapter was dissolved during the French Revolution, its legacy endures. Today, the canonesses are represented in the Ducasse de Mons procession, a vibrant celebration of the city's heritage.
Saint Waltrude Collegiate Church houses an impressive collection of sculptures, including works by the renowned artist Jacques Du Brœucq. Many of these pieces originally adorned a Renaissance-style rood screen, crafted between 1545 and 1549. Although the rood screen was dismantled during the French Revolution, most of Du Brœucq's sculptures were preserved and now grace various parts of the church. Notable works include the bas-relief of the Resurrection and statues of the cardinal and theological virtues in the choir.
The church also boasts statues from different periods, such as a 14th-century polychrome wooden statue of Saint James the Apostle and a late 15th-century depiction of Saint Waltrude and her daughters. These artworks offer a glimpse into the rich artistic heritage of the region.
The stained glass windows of Saint Waltrude Collegiate Church are among the most remarkable in Belgium. The church features 21 stained glass windows from the 16th century, forming one of the most complete collections in the country. The windows, commissioned by the canonesses, depict various biblical scenes, saints, and donors, reflecting the hierarchy of power and influence during that era.
Despite undergoing significant restorations over the centuries, the windows retain their original Gothic and Renaissance styles. The five large windows in the choir, donated by Emperor Maximilian I in 1510-1511, are particularly noteworthy, depicting the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary.
The choir stalls, crafted from oak in 1707, were originally part of the Saint-Germain Church. These intricately carved stalls feature busts of the Evangelists, Church Fathers, the Virgin Mary, and Christ. The church's grand organ, originally from the Abbey of Cambron, is another highlight. Constructed in 1693 and expanded in 1767, the organ was relocated to Saint Waltrude Collegiate Church in the early 19th century. It has since undergone several restorations, maintaining its status as one of the finest organs in Belgium.
A visit to Saint Waltrude Collegiate Church offers a journey through centuries of history, art, and architecture. The church's towering Gothic façade, intricate sculptures, and stunning stained glass windows provide a feast for the eyes. As you explore the church, take a moment to appreciate the craftsmanship and dedication that went into creating this magnificent structure.
Whether you are a history enthusiast, an art lover, or simply seeking a moment of tranquility, Saint Waltrude Collegiate Church is a must-visit destination in Mons. Its rich heritage and timeless beauty will leave a lasting impression, making it a highlight of any trip to this charming Belgian city.
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