Nestled in the heart of Nancy's Old Town, the Church of Saint-François-des-Cordeliers, known locally as église des Cordeliers de Nancy, is a captivating historical gem. This remarkable church, with its understated elegance, stands as a testament to the rich history and architectural prowess of the Lorraine region. Its close proximity to the Ducal Palace and its integration into the Lorraine Museum make it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and casual tourists alike.
The Church of Saint-François-des-Cordeliers was constructed under the patronage of René II, Duke of Lorraine, following the pivotal Battle of Nancy. Consecrated in 1487, this church became the final resting place for the Dukes of Lorraine, replacing the now-lost Collegiate Church of Saint-Georges. Over the centuries, it has served various roles, including a temporary parish church during the reconstruction of the old Saint-Epvre Church in the 19th century.
The church's architecture is a study in contrasts, with its exterior's simplicity belying the intricate artistry within. Spanning 73 meters in length and a mere 9 meters in width, the church features a single, grand nave typical of Cordelier churches. The interior once boasted numerous stained glass windows, fragments of which are preserved in the Lorraine Museum, and frescoes, with a surviving section near the choir.
Flanking the nave are side chapels that house the tombs of several Dukes of Lorraine. Notably, the right side of the nave near the altar features the Renaissance polychrome tomb of Duke René II. The altar itself, a later addition, is adorned with a polychrome altarpiece from 1522. The grand rose window, reconstructed in the classical period, proudly displays the arms of Lorraine.
One of the most intriguing aspects of the Church of Saint-François-des-Cordeliers is its role as the burial site for the Dukes of Lorraine. The church's Chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, built between 1609 and 1612 in the Italian Baroque style, houses the remains and cenotaphs of the ducal family. This chapel, commissioned by Charles III of Lorraine, features a stunning trompe-l'œil dome and is the only burial site of its kind, with the exception of Francis I, who was interred in Vienna.
Visitors are often captivated by the church's artistic treasures, including a 16th-century fresco attributed to Hugues de la Faye. This artwork, depicting angels holding the instruments of the Passion, adorns part of the ceiling. Another tempera painting, dedicated to Our Lady of Consolation, graces the first two bays on the left, near the effigies of Claude de Baudoche and René de Beauvau.
The choir is home to wooden stalls from the Abbey of Salival, dating back to 1691, adding to the church's rich tapestry of historical and artistic elements.
The Church of Saint-François-des-Cordeliers holds a special connection with the Habsburg-Lorraine family. In the 1760s, the Austrian emperor took an interest in the tombs of his ancestors, commissioning various marble works and ensuring masses were held. Marie-Antoinette, before her marriage to Louis XVI, visited the chapel to honor her lineage.
During the French Revolution, the tombs were desecrated, but the remains were carefully reinterred in the Boudonville Cemetery. Under the Restoration, Louis XVIII and Francis I of Austria oversaw the restoration of the chapel, culminating in a solemn reinstallation of the ducal remains in 1826. This event, marked by an expiatory ceremony, was a significant moment in the church's history.
Today, the Church of Saint-François-des-Cordeliers continues to be a site of cultural and historical significance. Since 1934, an annual solemn mass, organized by the Lorraine Historical Society and the Lorraine Museum, honors the memory of the Dukes and Princes of Lorraine and Bar. This event, typically held in late October, is a poignant reminder of the region's rich heritage.
The church has also hosted significant events, such as the wedding of Otto von Habsburg-Lorraine and Regina of Saxe-Meiningen in 1951, and their golden wedding anniversary in 2001. In 2011, a requiem mass for Archduke Otto von Habsburg-Lorraine drew 350 attendees, underscoring the church's enduring connection to the Habsburg-Lorraine family.
In conclusion, the Church of Saint-François-des-Cordeliers is not just a monument of historical and architectural interest; it is a living testament to the enduring legacy of the Lorraine region. Its walls echo the stories of dukes and emperors, of battles and restorations, making it an essential stop on any tour of Nancy's historical landscape.
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