Nestled in the heart of Oviedo, Spain, the Iglesia de San Juan el Real stands as a beacon of historic elegance and spiritual significance. Known affectionately as the Cathedral of the Expansion, this architectural gem captivates visitors with its eclectic style and rich history, making it a must-see for anyone exploring the region.
The origins of San Juan el Real trace back to the 12th century, when a Romanesque church was constructed adjacent to a pilgrim hospital. This ancient site, located on the present-day Calle de Schulz, was integral to the spiritual and social life of medieval Oviedo. The church was initially part of a private oratory in the palace of Alfonso III the Great, dedicated to Saint John the Baptist.
Over the centuries, the church underwent numerous transformations. By the 19th century, the original structure was declared unsafe, leading to its demolition in 1882. After several relocations, the parish found its permanent home in the current building, inaugurated in 1915. Designed by architect Luis Bellido, the new church was a testament to the evolving architectural tastes of the early 20th century, blending neo-Romanesque and Byzantine elements.
The Iglesia de San Juan el Real is a stunning example of historicist architecture, characterized by its elaborate ornamentation. The church boasts a Latin cross plan with a single nave, flanked by lateral chapels and crowned by a majestic dome. This dome, supported by pendentives and a lantern, is clad in striking red tiles, offering a vivid contrast against the stone facade.
The exterior of the church is a masterpiece of stone masonry, featuring pink and white stone with intricate pinnacles, moldings, and capitals. The gabled facade is dominated by a large three-part window above the entrance, flanked by twin towers topped with bell towers. These towers house the church's bells, adding to the building's imposing presence.
Inside, the church is a treasure trove of artistic and spiritual beauty. The interior decoration was masterminded by the renowned Asturian priest and artist Félix Granda. His vision brought to life a rich iconographic program, evident in the splendid murals, sculptures, and altarpieces that adorn the church.
The main altar is a golden polyptych featuring a statue of Saint John the Baptist, set beneath a neo-Byzantine baldachin. This structure is adorned with symbols of the evangelists at its corners, and from its vaulted ceiling hangs a lamp inspired by Visigothic votive crowns. Flanking the presbytery are bronze dragons holding sanctuary lamps, adding a mythical touch to the sacred space.
The transepts house eclectic altarpieces that blend classical, Romanesque, and Byzantine styles. The Gospel side features a seated Virgin, a replica of the one created for the Basilica of Covadonga, accompanied by saints Eulalia of Mérida and Teresa of Jesus. On the Epistle side, visitors can admire a depiction of the Ecstasy of Saint Anthony, alongside images of Saint Francis of Assisi and Saint Benedict the Moor.
Other notable artworks include stained glass windows by the Maumejean company, designed under Granda's direction. These windows, inspired by Gothic art, fill the church with a kaleidoscope of colors. The confessionals, crafted in wood with gold accents, depict the Prodigal Son and the Good Shepherd, emphasizing themes of redemption and guidance.
Beyond its architectural and artistic allure, San Juan el Real holds a special place in Spanish history. It was here that Carmen Polo and Francisco Franco were married in 1923, with King Alfonso XIII as the honorary godfather. The church also houses the remains of Carmen Polo's parents, adding a personal historical layer to its narrative.
In 2014, the church was elevated to the status of a minor basilica by decree of the Holy See, recognizing its importance within the Catholic Church. This designation further cements its role as a spiritual and cultural landmark in Oviedo.
In conclusion, the Iglesia de San Juan el Real is not just a place of worship; it is a living testament to the rich tapestry of history, art, and faith that defines Oviedo. Its walls tell stories of devotion and resilience, inviting visitors to explore and reflect upon the enduring legacy of this magnificent basilica.
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