Nestled in the heart of Pesaro's historic center, the Synagogue of Pesaro, or Sinagoga spagnola di Pesaro, stands as a testament to the rich cultural tapestry and enduring history of the Jewish community in Italy. This architectural gem, hidden within the old Jewish ghetto established in 1632, offers visitors a unique glimpse into the past, where the echoes of centuries-old traditions still resonate.
The Synagogue of Pesaro is a remarkable example of a Sephardic synagogue, a place of worship for Jews of Spanish descent. In the 17th century, Pesaro's Jewish community was a vibrant hub, home to two synagogues: one Italian rite, now lost to time, and the surviving Sephardic synagogue. The latter remains largely intact, preserving its original 17th-century architectural features and decorations.
As you wander through its doors, you'll be enveloped in history. The synagogue's exterior is unassuming, typical of ghetto synagogues, with no outward signs of its sacred purpose. Two entrances mark its façade: a larger one for men, with a portal remodeled in the 19th century, and a smaller, more discreet entrance for women, leading up a steep staircase to the women's galleries.
Inside, the synagogue reveals its true splendor. The main prayer hall is a spacious, light-filled rectangular room on the first floor, featuring a high vaulted ceiling adorned with white and blue stucco rosettes interspersed with floral motifs. The aron and tevah, central elements of Jewish worship, face each other on the shorter walls. The aron, framed by elegant columns and windows, once housed the Torah scrolls, while the tevah formed a grand elevated gallery for the officiant and choir.
Two large 19th-century tempera paintings add to the synagogue's charm. One depicts the encampment of the Israelites at the foot of Mount Sinai, complete with the tabernacle tent. The other offers a rare allegorical representation of Jerusalem as a female figure against a pastoral backdrop, inspired by sketches from pilgrims returning from the Holy Land. The artwork is both a visual delight and a historical curiosity, with the Temple depicted actually being the Dome of the Rock.
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The synagogue's rich tapestry of history is woven into its very walls. An uninterrupted wooden paneling runs along the four walls, with rows of benches doubling on the longer sides. These benches, interestingly, originate from the now-demolished Italian rite synagogue. The women's gallery windows, once enclosed by intricately carved wooden screens featuring small Stars of David, now stand open, the screens having found a new home in Talpiot, near Jerusalem.
Despite its beauty, the Synagogue of Pesaro faced a period of decline as the local Jewish community dwindled in the 20th century. During this time, some of its most precious furnishings were lost. The golden wooden aron from 1708, crafted by cabinetmaker Angelo Scoccianti of Cupramontana, now resides in the synagogue of Livorno. The tevah's balcony found its way to Ancona, and the wooden screens to Israel.
In 1999, the synagogue, owned by the Jewish community of Ancona, was entrusted to the Municipality of Pesaro. Significant restoration efforts began in 2003, focusing on the ceiling decorations, paintings, and remaining wooden furnishings. These efforts have restored much of the prayer hall's original splendor, breathing new life into this historic site.
Today, the Synagogue of Pesaro stands not only as a place of worship but as a cultural and historical landmark. It offers visitors a window into the Jewish heritage of Pesaro and the resilience of its community. As you explore this sacred space, you'll be transported back in time, experiencing the beauty and tranquility that have graced its walls for centuries.
A visit to the Synagogue of Pesaro is a journey into the past, where history and culture converge in a unique and captivating setting. Whether you're an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or simply curious about the rich tapestry of Italian Jewish heritage, this synagogue offers a profound and enriching experience.
Located at Via delle Scuole 23, the synagogue is easily accessible from Pesaro's city center. As you step through its doors, you'll be embraced by the stories and traditions that have shaped this remarkable place. The Synagogue of Pesaro is more than just a historical monument; it's a living testament to the enduring spirit and cultural legacy of the Jewish community in Italy.
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