Old Roman Cathedral of St. Mary

The Old Roman Cathedral of St. Mary, locally known as Catedral Vieja de Plasencia, stands as a testament to the rich history and architectural evolution of Plasencia, Spain. This remarkable edifice, now partly functioning as the Museo Catedralicio de Plasencia, offers visitors a fascinating glimpse into the transition from Romanesque to Gothic styles, making it one of the most notable buildings in the region.

The Historical Journey

The construction of the Old Roman Cathedral of St. Mary commenced in the early 13th century, marking the beginning of a significant architectural journey. The initial phase of construction adhered to Romanesque principles, characterized by robust columns and intricate capitals. As you wander through its hallowed halls, you can witness the gradual transformation into Gothic architecture, particularly evident in the pointed arches and expansive windows that were introduced during later restorations.

The cathedral's three naves, once concealed under a thick layer of whitewash since the 18th century, now reveal their original grandeur thanks to recent restorations. This meticulous work has unveiled a solemn yet welcoming space, where the interplay of light and shadow accentuates the architectural details.

Architectural Marvels

The Old Roman Cathedral of St. Mary is a treasure trove of architectural marvels. The central nave, elevated above the side naves, retains its original ribbed vaults adorned with terceletes. The side naves feature simpler vaults, all of which are embellished with a rich tapestry of iconography. Here, religious themes intertwine with depictions of medieval bestiary, local characters from Plasencia, and representations of vices such as gluttony and lust. These scenes provide a captivating glimpse into the medieval mindset and artistic expression.

The original apse, now lost to time, once housed the main chapel, separated from the nave by a small staircase. Flanking the main chapel were two smaller chapels: the Chapel of the Crucifix on the Gospel side and the Chapel of Our Lady of Forgiveness, also known as the Blessed Sacrament Chapel, on the Epistle side. The images that once graced these chapels have been relocated to new settings, such as the Chapel of St. Paul, or various locations within the New Cathedral.

The Main Portal

The main portal of the Old Roman Cathedral of St. Mary is a masterpiece of Romanesque design. Its semi-circular arches, adorned with classic archivolts, lead the eye to a sculptural group depicting the Annunciation of Our Lady. Above this scene, a splendid rose window showcases a small image of the Virgin Mary, flanked by an angel in prayer. This portal is rich in symbolism, with hidden surprises such as a triskeles carved into one of the arch's voussoirs and a semi-hidden dragon beneath the archangel Gabriel's wing, referencing medieval theological teachings like the Doctrine of Atonement.

Visitors can also enter through the so-called West Door, mistakenly referred to as the Door of Forgiveness. This entrance, dating back to the early 13th century, was originally part of the now-lost northern transept.

The Cloister

The cloister of the Old Roman Cathedral of St. Mary is an architectural gem, showcasing the transition from Romanesque to Gothic styles. The irregularly shaped cloister features Romanesque columns and capitals adorned with biblical scenes, while the arches and ribbed vaults reflect early Gothic influences. The west and south naves exhibit a clear Cistercian style, characterized by simplicity and elegance. At the center of the cloister's courtyard stands a 15th-century Gothic fountain, adorned with the coat of arms of Bishop and Cardinal Juan de Carvajal.

Today, the cloister serves as a point of connection between the Old and New Cathedrals, with its pavement housing the tombs of illustrious canons.

The Chapel of St. Paul or Melon Tower

One of the most distinctive features of the Old Roman Cathedral of St. Mary is the Chapel of St. Paul, also known as the Melon Tower due to its melon-shaped finial. This chapel, originally the chapter house, follows the design of lantern towers or cimborios found in the cathedrals of Zamora and Salamanca, as well as the collegiate church of Toro. Its architectural roots can be traced to French Romanesque, particularly the religious buildings of the Poitou region.

The Chapel of St. Paul is a square room that transforms into an octagon through the use of ribbed squinches, culminating in a sixteen-ribbed vault. The exterior features a conical double-shelled dome covered in scale-like tiles to prevent erosion from rainwater. The tower's distinctive melon-shaped finial gives it its popular name. Over the centuries, the chapel has adapted to various uses, including serving as a library in 1508 and as the main chapel in 1544 during renovations to the cathedral's apse.

In conclusion, the Old Roman Cathedral of St. Mary, or Catedral Vieja de Plasencia, is not merely a historic monument but a living testament to the architectural and cultural evolution of Plasencia. Its walls and vaults echo the stories of centuries past, offering visitors a unique and enriching experience. Whether you are an architecture enthusiast, a history buff, or simply a curious traveler, this cathedral promises a journey through time and artistry that is both captivating and unforgettable.