Chiesa di San Domenico

The Chiesa di San Domenico, nestled in the heart of Rieti's historic center, is a testament to the city's rich religious and cultural heritage. This church, one of the most significant in the Diocese of Rieti, stands proudly in Piazza Beata Colomba, inviting visitors to explore its storied past and architectural splendor.

The History of Chiesa di San Domenico

The origins of Chiesa di San Domenico date back to a period of economic prosperity in Rieti during the 13th century. The church's foundation is closely linked to the canonization of Saint Dominic of Guzmán by Pope Gregory IX on July 13, 1234, within the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in Rieti. This event marked a significant moment for the Dominican Order, which had established a presence in Rieti by 1263.

Construction of the church began in 1266, and by 1268, the adjacent convent was formally established. Throughout the 14th century, numerous central Italian painters adorned the walls and chapels with frescoes, contributing to the church's artistic legacy. However, the advent of the Baroque period saw the introduction of noble altars, which led to the plastering over of many original frescoes.

The current bell tower, a prominent feature of the church, was constructed in 1642. Despite its initial grandeur, the church eventually fell into disrepair, and by the late 18th century, there were even discussions of demolishing it. Fortunately, restoration efforts prevailed, preserving this historical gem.

The church faced further challenges during the Napoleonic invasion of 1810, which resulted in the suppression of convents and the expulsion of the Dominican friars. Although the friars briefly returned during the restoration, they were permanently expelled in 1862 following the unification of Italy. Subsequently, the church was deconsecrated and repurposed as a military barracks and stable.

In the early 20th century, the church was detached from the barracks and converted into a sawmill before being abandoned once again. Various valuable artworks were removed to ensure their preservation, including an altar relocated to the Church of San Pietro Apostolo and frescoes by Liberato di Benedetto, which were transferred to the Civic Museum in the 1960s.

Thanks to the tireless efforts of Don Luigi Bardotti, the parish priest of Santa Lucia, significant public and private funds were secured for the church's restoration in the 1990s. The church, which had lost its roof in the 1979 earthquake and was overrun with weeds, underwent extensive renovations, including the reconstruction of the roof and consolidation of the bell tower. In 1999, the church was reconsecrated, and in 2008, it was further enriched with the installation of the Pontifical Dom Bedos-Roubo Benedict XVI organ.

Architectural Features

The Chiesa di San Domenico's exterior boasts a simple yet striking design, characterized by its travertine stone facade. The main entrance is framed by a wooden door, an arch, and a tympanum, flanked by two small windows. Originally, a rose window adorned the facade above the entrance, but it was replaced by a large window by the late 18th century.

The church's interior features a single, spacious nave. Years of neglect resulted in the loss of most of the original decorations, leaving the walls plastered in white. However, restoration efforts have uncovered some of the original frescoes, including the Stories of a Saint and a Saintess in the Alemanni Chapel, attributed to Liberato da Rieti and dating back to around 1441.

One notable fresco, Crucifixion and Massacre of the Innocents, also by Liberato, was discovered in 1924 behind a wall in the Grimaldi family chapel. Due to the church's deteriorated state, the fresco was removed from the wall and transferred to canvas in 1966, where it now resides in the Civic Museum of Rieti.

The church is also home to the monumental Dom Bedos-Roubo organ, a French-style classical organ constructed by Bartolomeo Formentelli. With 4,040 pipes and a 32-foot display, it is one of the largest organs in Europe, based on two 1760 treatises.

The Convent and Oratory

The complex originally included the Convent of San Domenico, which has been part of the Attilio Verdirosi Barracks since 1862 and is not generally accessible to the public. The convent is centered around the Cloister of Beata Colomba, an Italian garden with a central well and a portico adorned with lunettes depicting the life of Beata Colomba da Rieti.

Within the convent, on the southern side of the cloister, lies the Oratory of San Pietro Martire. This small chapel once housed the Confraternity of San Pietro Martire until 1576, when they relocated to the Church of San Pietro Martire, taking with them the original stone portal from 1546. The oratory features a significant fresco of the Last Judgment by the Veronese brothers Lorenzo and Bartolomeo Torresani, created between 1552 and 1554. Despite efforts to censor its nudity in 1574, the fresco was preserved thanks to the Dominican friars' opposition.

The fresco's attribution was debated for years until early 20th-century research confirmed the Torresani brothers as its creators. The fresco depicts the Last Judgment, with San Pietro Martire surrounded by angels and saints, and scenes of resurrection and damnation on either side. An additional fresco by Bartolomeo Torresani, depicting San Pietro Martire, is also present.

Though the oratory is part of the military barracks and generally closed to the public, it occasionally opens for special events with the barracks' approval. Over the years, the oratory has served various purposes, from a storage space for public assistance equipment to the headquarters of the Dante Alighieri Society. Discussions continue about making this valuable artistic site more accessible to tourists, but security concerns have so far prevented this.

In conclusion, the Chiesa di San Domenico in Rieti is not just a church; it is a living chronicle of the city's history, art, and resilience. Its walls tell tales of devotion, artistic achievement, and the enduring spirit of a community determined to preserve its heritage. A visit to this remarkable site offers a unique glimpse into the past and a profound appreciation for the cultural treasures of Rieti.