Franciscan Abbey, Rothenburg ob der Tauber

In the heart of the picturesque town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Bavaria, Germany, stands the Franciscan Abbey, or Franziskanerkirche. This historic gem, with its rich past and architectural beauty, offers an enchanting glimpse into the medieval world of monastic life and devotion. The abbey, now a Protestant church, continues to be a place of worship and reflection, drawing visitors from around the globe.

The History of the Franciscan Abbey

The Franciscan Abbey was founded in 1281, thanks to the efforts of Hermann von Hornburg and other local dignitaries. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and became part of the Upper German (Strasbourg) Province of the Franciscan Order, established in 1210. The abbey's church, which remains to this day, was built in 1282, marking the beginning of its storied history.

During the division of the Franciscan Order in 1517, the abbey aligned with the Conventual Franciscans (Minorites), who practiced a less stringent form of the vow of poverty. Around 1400, a community of Franciscan Tertiaries also resided here for a time before establishing their own house, though they continued to receive pastoral care from the abbey.

The Reformation in 1548 led to the dissolution of the Minorite monastery. The buildings were repurposed over the years, serving as a Latin school and later as housing for widows of pastors. After 1805, parts of the abbey were used as a salt warehouse, and many structures, including the cloister and refectory, were demolished, with much of the original inventory lost or sold.

The Architecture of the Church

The Franciscan Abbey is a prime example of a mendicant order church, featuring a rood screen and significant art treasures. It is regarded as one of the best-preserved and most important mendicant order churches in Franconia. Construction began in 1282, with the choir consecrated in 1309 and again in 1333. The church boasts a three-aisled basilica nave with a flat ceiling, leading to a high, elongated choir with ribbed vaulting.

Exploring the Rood Screen

The rood screen, spanning five bays, separates the nave from the choir, delineating the space for laypeople from that for monks. It extends beyond the width of the choir and encompasses the entire nave width. Divided into chapels by solid partitions, the screen features altars in its four side chapels. A door in the central bay provides access to the choir.

Unlike many churches, the rood screen was not removed after the Reformation but was instead used as a gallery, preserving the spatial image of the 14th century. A small organ still stands on it today. In medieval times, the rood screen was a place of proclamation, serving for readings and sermons, as well as a singers' pulpit. The wooden balustrade was painted with a Passion cycle around 1370/1390 and later adorned with the Rothenburg Passion in 1494, now housed in the Imperial City Museum. After the Reformation, a painting of the Last Supper was added in the early 17th century.

The Altars of the Abbey

In the 18th century, five of the original eight medieval altars remained: the high altar (Marian altar) and four altars in the rood screen chapels dedicated to Saints Louis, Francis, John, and Catherine. Fragments of the Louis and John altars were later moved to St. James's Church, while the others were lost.

In the late 19th century, the choir was fitted with a new Trinity altar as the high altar, incorporating a late Gothic Trinity group (circa 1500) and two reliefs (circa 1560). This altar now stands under the rood screen arches.

The Franciscan Altar, dating from around 1480/1490, is the most notable artwork in the church today. Its origin is unknown, and it is unlikely to be the same as the Francis altar of the rood screen chapel, mentioned in 1366. It may have originally stood in a Franciscan chapel by the cloister. In the 20th century, it was placed in the nave, before the center of the rood screen. Now replaced by a simple altar table, it allows visitors to see through the rood screen door into the choir space.

The Abbey Organ

The organ of the Franciscan Abbey, a masterpiece from the workshop of Nuremberg organ builder Johannes Strebel, was constructed in 1889 as Opus 12. With 14 registers on two manuals and a pedal, it was restored in 1992 by the Sandtner organ building company. The organ is considered one of Bavaria's most significant heritage organs.

A Cycling Church

Located along the Taubertal Cycle Path, the Franciscan Abbey is designated as a cycling church, welcoming cyclists to pause and reflect on their journeys.

The Franciscan Abbey in Rothenburg ob der Tauber is not just an architectural marvel but a testament to the enduring spirit of faith and history. Its walls tell stories of devotion, change, and resilience, making it a must-visit for anyone exploring the charming town of Rothenburg.