Pioneer Square totem pole

In the heart of downtown Seattle, amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life, stands a striking symbol of cultural heritage and history—the Pioneer Square totem pole. This towering monument, also known as the Seattle totem pole or historically as the Chief-of-All-Women pole, is more than just an artistic marvel; it’s a gateway to a rich tapestry of stories and traditions that date back centuries.

The Tlingit Origin

The origins of the Pioneer Square totem pole trace back to around 1790 when it was initially carved by the Tlingit people, a Native American tribe from the Pacific Northwest. The totem pole was created to honor a revered Tlingit woman, Chief-of-All-Women, who tragically drowned in the Nass River while on a journey to visit her ill sister. Her family, in their grief, hired a skilled carver and shared with him the stories and symbols they wished to be immortalized on the pole. Once completed, the totem pole was raised in her honor in the Tlingit village on Tongass Island, Alaska, during a potlatch ceremony—a traditional gathering that included feasting, dancing, and the distribution of gifts.

A Controversial Acquisition

Fast forward to 1899, when an expedition sponsored by the Seattle Post-Intelligencer and composed of prominent Seattle businessmen set sail for Alaska. The expedition aimed to strengthen trade relations and promote Seattle as the Gateway to Alaska. However, during their stop at the Tlingit village at Fort Tongass, the businessmen noticed several totem poles. Seeing that the village appeared to be deserted, they decided to take one as a souvenir. The totem pole they chose was chopped down and sawed in half for easier transport. This act of cultural vandalism was met with mixed reactions upon the expedition’s return to Seattle.

Unveiling in Pioneer Square

Despite the controversy, the totem pole was repaired and repainted before being unveiled in Pioneer Square on October 18, 1899. The unveiling ceremony was attended by city officials and a large crowd. While some praised the totem pole as a unique and fitting symbol for Seattle, others criticized it as an inappropriate and disrespectful acquisition. The Seattle Daily Times even published scathing critiques, describing the totem pole as a blot and a disgrace.

Legal Battles and Tlingit Response

When the Tlingit people returned to their village and discovered the theft, they were understandably outraged. The Kinninook family, to whom the totem pole belonged, demanded legal action. Despite filing a claim for damages and pursuing legal proceedings both in Seattle and Alaska, the Tlingit people faced significant challenges in seeking justice. Ultimately, a settlement was reached, with the Seattle Post-Intelligencer paying $2,000 to the Tlingit claimants. However, the theft and subsequent legal battles left a lasting impact on both the Tlingit community and the city of Seattle.

A Source of Civic Pride

Over the years, the totem pole became a symbol of civic pride for Seattle. It appeared on postcards, brochures, and other promotional materials, especially during the Alaska–Yukon–Pacific Exposition in 1909. The totem pole was celebrated as a unique and iconic representation of Seattle’s connection to Alaska and its Native American heritage. By 1910, it had become known as the totem pole that made Seattle famous.

Destruction and Replica

In 1938, the original totem pole suffered significant damage due to arson. Upon inspection, it was determined that the pole was too damaged to be repaired. In response, the Seattle City Council and Park Board commissioned a replica, which was carved by Tlingit artisans under the direction of the United States Forest Service. The replica was installed in Pioneer Square in 1940, ensuring that the legacy of the original totem pole would continue to be honored and remembered.

Visiting the Totem Pole Today

Today, the Pioneer Square totem pole stands as a National Historic Landmark and a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the Tlingit people. Visitors to Pioneer Square can marvel at the intricate carvings and vibrant colors of the totem pole, each figure telling a story from Tlingit mythology and history. The pole serves as a reminder of the complex and often tumultuous history between Native American communities and the settlers who arrived on their lands.

As you stroll through Pioneer Square, take a moment to reflect on the stories and traditions encapsulated in the totem pole. It’s not just a piece of art; it’s a living history, a symbol of resilience, and a bridge between the past and the present. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, an art lover, or simply a curious traveler, the Pioneer Square totem pole is a must-see landmark that offers a profound glimpse into the cultural fabric of Seattle and the Pacific Northwest.