Church San Nicolò

The Church San Nicolò, known locally as Chiesa di San Nicolò, is a majestic and historically rich religious edifice nestled in the southwestern part of Treviso, Italy. It stands proudly as the largest church in the city, even surpassing the grandeur of the Treviso Cathedral. This architectural marvel, with its imposing structure and intricate details, offers a fascinating glimpse into the past and a serene escape for those seeking spiritual and historical enrichment.

The History of Church San Nicolò

The origins of Church San Nicolò date back to 1221 when the Dominican friars, invited by the local commune, established their presence in Treviso. The commune even allocated a generous contribution of 500 lire for the construction of the church and the adjoining convent. The Dominicans chose a strategic location within the newly erected city walls, where a chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas already existed.

By 1282, the new church was consecrated, as evidenced by a document describing it as a model for the construction of another church, Santa Margherita degli Eremitani. During these formative years, the future Pope Benedict XI, Nicolò Bocassino, began his religious training at the adjoining convent. His deep connection to the church led him to donate 25,000 florins for its expansion upon his return from a mission in Hungary. After becoming Pope, he allegedly left an additional 48,000 florins in his will for the church's completion, a testament to his enduring affection for this sacred place.

Exploring the Exterior

As you approach Church San Nicolò, its grandiose structure immediately commands attention. Built in the Lombard-Gothic style, the church features a Latin cross layout with three naves and five terminal chapels. The use of traditional Roman architectural elements, such as the compact masonry, lesenes, and cornices with hanging arches, adds a touch of classical elegance to the imposing edifice.

The church's exterior is marked by ascending lines, emphasized by the slender lesenes and the white stone frames of the tall windows. The towering bell tower further accentuates this upward thrust, creating a striking visual impact. The central facade boasts a rose window adorned with terracotta decorations and a pointed top, although the relatively narrow churchyard limits a full appreciation of its grandeur from the front. The northern side and the apsidal area offer more space for viewing, but the urban context remains somewhat constrained for such an impressive structure.

The Splendor of the Interior

Stepping inside Church San Nicolò, visitors are greeted by a vast, luminous space that stretches approximately 88 meters in length and soars to a height of around 33.35 meters. The central body of the church spans 27.50 meters in width, expanding to 38.32 meters at the crossing. The Latin cross layout divides the interior into three naves, intersected by a transept, with five parallel apsidal chapels opening from it.

The high ceilings of the minor naves create a seamless flow of space, enhanced by the presence of 12 cylindrical columns, symbolizing the Apostles. Ten of these columns are made of brick, while the two at the front are crafted from stone. These columns support a simple wooden trussed ceiling and are adorned with frescoes by Tommaso da Modena, depicting saints such as Saint Jerome, Saint Agnes, and Saint Romuald. Additional frescoes, attributed to his school, can be found throughout the church.

The Phenomenon of the Winter Solstice

One of the most intriguing features of Church San Nicolò is its alignment with the winter solstice. The church was constructed with a precise orientation of 91 degrees and 4 minutes relative to the sun's path. On the day of the winter solstice, around noon, the sunlight perfectly illuminates six medallions on the northern side of the church. These medallions, depicting saints, are believed to be the work of a Venetian artist active between 1220 and 1330, with some attributing them to Tommaso da Modena.

The Presbytery

The Gothic apse of Church San Nicolò is particularly striking, with its numerous tall, narrow windows framed by slender ribs. The central apse houses the presbytery, where the funerary monument of Agostino Onigo, a notable 15th-century sculpture, stands. The monument is complemented by frescoes of uncertain attribution, with names such as Giovanni Buora, the Lombardo family, Lorenzo Lotto, Giovanni Buonconsiglio, and Girolamo Pennacchi being suggested.

Within the central apse, visitors can also admire a painting of the Madonna enthroned with a musical angel and saints, created by Fra Marco Pensaben, also known as Maraveia, and completed in 1521 by Giovanni Gerolamo Savoldo. The detached fresco of the pages at the base of the Onigo monument is often attributed to Lorenzo Lotto, as noted in various historical records and catalogues.

The Organs

Church San Nicolò is home to two remarkable organs. The larger organ, situated in an elevated position on the right nave, was crafted by Gaetano Callido in 1778-1779. Its painted shutters, depicting scenes from the life of Pope Benedict XI, add to its artistic value. This organ features 36 registers on two manuals and a pedal. In the left transept, a smaller positive organ, built by Francesco Zanin in 2017, can be found.

The Episcopal Seminary

Adjacent to Church San Nicolò is the Episcopal Seminary, housed in the former Dominican convent since 1840. Among its notable features is the chapter room of the Dominicans, adorned with a vast fresco by Tommaso da Modena from 1352, depicting various abbots. This room is also home to the first known representation of eyeglasses.

In conclusion, Church San Nicolò stands as a testament to Treviso's rich historical and architectural heritage. Its towering presence, intricate details, and fascinating history make it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring this charming Italian city. Whether you are drawn by its spiritual significance, architectural beauty, or historical intrigue, a visit to Church San Nicolò promises an unforgettable experience.