In the heart of Ústí nad Labem, the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary stands as a testament to centuries of history, architectural evolution, and resilience. Known locally as Kostel Nanebevzetí Panny Marie v Ústí nad Labem, this Roman Catholic archdeaconry church is not just a place of worship but a symbol of the city’s enduring spirit.
The origins of the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary date back to around 1318, when it was constructed by German colonists. The church has witnessed and withstood numerous historical events, beginning with its near destruction by Hussite forces in 1426. Over the years, it was painstakingly rebuilt, with significant restorations occurring between 1450 and 1530, leading to the completion of its nave and tower by 1530.
However, the church's journey was far from smooth. In 1538, a devastating fire ravaged Ústí nad Labem, destroying the church's bells. Despite this setback, the church rose again, and in 1897, it underwent a significant transformation under the guidance of Viennese architect A. Weber, following designs by Josef Mocker. This renovation introduced the neo-Gothic style that defines the church's current appearance, replacing its original tent roof with a gable roof.
One of the most distinctive features of the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is its leaning tower. During the American bombing raids of 1945, the church was heavily damaged, with three bombs landing nearby and a fourth piercing the roof without exploding. This traumatic event caused the tower to tilt by two meters and one centimeter from its vertical axis, making it the most tilted tower north of the Alps. Despite this dramatic tilt, the church was restored and reopened after the war, with the leaning tower becoming a unique and endearing characteristic.
The Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is a late Gothic structure built from hewn stone. Its long presbytery ends in a five-sided closure supported by smooth buttresses. The nave, with its square floor plan and gable roof, is complemented by a high, pyramidal tower roof adorned with seven turrets. The tower's Gothic portal, featuring a high baldachin and blind tracery, adds to the church's majestic appearance.
Inside, the presbytery boasts three vault fields with cross vaults and tall, pointed windows with late Gothic tracery. The square hall-like nave has four vault fields with eight-pointed star vaults supported by three pairs of smooth octagonal columns with chamfered edges. The interior corners of the side aisles feature consoles, one with the emblem of Vladislav and another with a bust of a king, adding historical depth to the architectural beauty.
The church's interior is a treasure trove of historical artifacts. The most valuable piece is the late Gothic winged main altar from 1498, adorned with polychrome statues of the Madonna and Child, flanked by St. Peter and St. John the Baptist. The altar wings depict St. Mary Magdalene and St. John the Evangelist. This altar, purchased in 1659 from the town church in Pirna, was installed here after a restoration in 1872.
On the left side of the presbytery, a Gothic stone sanctuary with a central leg and an iron wrought grille stands as a testament to the church's medieval origins. The pulpit, carved from a single piece of sandstone in 1574, features a staircase and a neo-Gothic canopy. The church also houses valuable Renaissance epitaphs, including those of A. Glace from 1588 and A. Fügner from 1539. A modern main altar with a glass leg represents 20th-century artistry, blending the old with the new.
The church's leaning tower houses three bells: Zuzana, Willeborte, and a bell from 1544. Zuzana, with a lower diameter of 165 cm, is the largest bell in the Ústí nad Labem district. The tower also features an uninhabited two-room apartment for the tower keeper, a common feature in many churches but unique in the district.
Inside the church, two additional bells of unknown origin can be found: one from 1817 and a cast-iron bell from 1918. Historically, the church housed eight bells, but several were requisitioned during World War I, leaving only the three mentioned earlier.
The Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is not just an architectural marvel but a living monument to the resilience and faith of the people of Ústí nad Labem. Its leaning tower serves as a poignant reminder of the trials the city has faced and overcome. Visitors to this historic church can not only appreciate its architectural beauty and historical artifacts but also reflect on the enduring spirit that has kept this church standing through centuries of turmoil and change.
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