The San Giorgio in Strata Church, known locally as Chiesa di San Giorgio in Strata, is a hidden gem nestled in the heart of Vigevano, Italy. This quaint and historic church, tucked away on Via Cairoli, once known as Via Strata, is a testament to the rich cultural and architectural heritage of the region. Despite its modest exterior, the church has a fascinating history that dates back to the 11th century, making it one of the oldest churches in the area still open for worship.
The origins of San Giorgio in Strata Church are shrouded in both history and legend. The church was initially built under the patronage of the Colli family and was complementary to the adjacent Visconti Castle. According to local lore, the church was originally located within the castle walls, allowing knights to pray before heading into battle. However, it was later relocated brick by brick to its current location on Via Cairoli to accommodate modifications to the castle ordered by Ludovico il Moro, the Duke of Milan, in the late 15th century.
One of the most captivating legends associated with the church involves Ludovico il Moro himself. It is said that Ludovico fell in love with one of his wife Beatrice’s ladies-in-waiting, who, unfortunately for him, was in love with a squire. The couple secretly married in the church, with the help of a friar, and fled to Novara. Upon discovering this, Ludovico pursued them but eventually gave up the chase. In a fit of rage, he ordered the friar to be executed and the chapel to be destroyed. The knights, however, decided to reconstruct the church outside the castle walls, where it stands today.
Despite being almost hidden among surrounding buildings, the San Giorgio in Strata Church is a charming sight. Its façade, made of unplastered brick and capped with a gable roof, is simple yet evocative of its ancient origins. The bell tower, located on the left side, adds a touch of rustic charm to the structure. The façade features three windows: a circular one and two narrow, arched slit windows, designed to create a serene environment suitable for prayer. The wooden entrance door, crafted by Luigi Barni in 1927, is topped with a blind lunette, adding to the church’s understated elegance.
Stepping inside San Giorgio in Strata Church, visitors are greeted by a single rectangular nave with a semicircular apse. The interior, which underwent significant modifications in the 18th century, is divided into three bays by arches supported by pilasters. These arches, added during the 18th-century renovations, replaced the original wooden trusses to provide greater stability to the structure. The ceiling, now made of terracotta tiles, replaced the original wooden ceiling during the same period.
One of the most striking features inside the church is the fresco depicting Saint George slaying a dragon in front of a princess. This artwork, attributed to a local school painter, originally portrayed Saint George in proportion to his horse. However, during the 18th-century renovations, the figure of Saint George was resized based on the princess’s figure, resulting in a somewhat disproportionate image. The fresco, dating from the 13th to the 15th century, was last restored in 1969 under the guidance of Professor Vicentini.
Another notable feature is the semicircular apse, which once served as both choir and sacristy following the 18th-century renovations. The apse was restored to its original function during the 1968 restoration work, which also saw the removal of a baroque altar and its replacement with a more modern one. The church’s only surviving painting, an image of Saint Ambrose, was later moved to the Bishop’s Palace.
San Giorgio in Strata Church holds a special place in the hearts of the people of Vigevano, especially students who have visited the church for generations to seek blessings before exams at the nearby high school. Despite its small size and unassuming appearance, the church is a cherished part of the community’s cultural and religious life.
Today, the church is privately owned and managed by the local Ecuadorian community of the Virgin of Cisne. It continues to serve as a place of worship and a reminder of Vigevano’s rich historical tapestry. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply a curious traveler, a visit to San Giorgio in Strata Church offers a unique glimpse into the past and a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of modern life.
In conclusion, San Giorgio in Strata Church is more than just an ancient building; it is a symbol of resilience and devotion, standing as a silent witness to centuries of history and the enduring spirit of the Vigevanese people. Its walls, steeped in legend and tradition, invite visitors to explore and reflect upon the stories that have shaped this remarkable place.
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