Viterbo Cathedral, known locally as Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, stands as a majestic testament to the rich historical and architectural heritage of Viterbo, Italy. Nestled on a hill, this cathedral has been a pivotal place of worship and a witness to centuries of history, from the Romanesque era to the Renaissance. Its grandeur and significance make it an unmissable destination for any visitor to this ancient city.
The origins of Viterbo Cathedral date back to the late 12th century, built on the site of a smaller 7th-century church dedicated to Saint Lawrence, which itself was erected over the ruins of a pagan temple dedicated to Hercules. As the city of Viterbo expanded northward, the cathedral's strategic location on the hill became a focal point of religious and civic life.
In 1192, Pope Celestine III elevated Viterbo to the status of a diocese, and the church of San Lorenzo was designated as its cathedral. This marked the beginning of its prominence, which was further solidified in the 13th century when the cathedral and the adjacent Papal Palace became the residence of the papacy. This period saw the interment of two popes within the cathedral: Pope Alexander IV, whose tomb has been lost, and Pope John XXI, whose tomb remains a notable feature of the cathedral's left nave.
The cathedral's architecture reflects a blend of styles due to various renovations over the centuries. Originally constructed in the Romanesque style, the cathedral underwent significant changes in the 16th century under the direction of Cardinal Gambara. He commissioned a Renaissance-style façade, which stands in stark contrast to the medieval buildings surrounding it. The only remaining original exterior element is the striking campanile, characterized by its alternating bands of white travertine and blue basalt, and adorned with double bifora windows.
The interior of Viterbo Cathedral is equally fascinating. The original Romanesque structure featured three naves separated by columns and arches, with a cosmatesque pavement. In the 16th century, ten chapels were added along the side walls, leading to the loss of the frescoes that once adorned them. The 17th century saw the addition of a barrel vault, decorated in 1681 by Urbano Romanelli, and the extension of the central nave with a Baroque apse. However, much of the Baroque modifications were removed after World War II, following extensive damage from a bomb explosion in 1944. The restoration aimed to return the cathedral to its presumed Romanesque appearance, resulting in the closure of eight of the ten chapels and the reconstruction of a modern apse in place of the Baroque one.
Within the cathedral, visitors can admire several significant works of art. Notable among these is a 16th-century fresco by Antonio del Massaro da Viterbo, depicting the Virgin and Child with Saints. The cathedral also houses a marble baptismal font crafted by Francesco di Ancona in 1470, featuring a finely decorated circular basin supported by lion's paws. Other important artworks include paintings by Giovanni Francesco Romanelli and Marco Benefial, as well as a 12th-century Byzantine-style panel of the Virgin of the Carbonara.
The cathedral's musical heritage is preserved in its impressive organ, built in 1964 by the Zenoni company of Pescara and later restored and expanded in 2004 by the Maggiora company of Florence. The organ features three keyboards and a pedalboard, and its electric transmission system allows for a versatile range of musical expressions. In 2019, a portable liturgical organ was added, further enhancing the cathedral's musical capabilities.
The Viterbo Cathedral is not just an isolated monument; it is part of the larger historical ensemble of Piazza di San Lorenzo. This square is surrounded by other significant buildings, including the ancient city hospital with visible Etruscan foundations, and the Casa di Valentino della Pagnotta, a 13th-century building reconstructed after damage during World War II. The northern side of the square is dominated by the loggia of the Papal Palace, which connects the palace to the other buildings on the eastern side of the square.
Visiting Viterbo Cathedral offers a journey through time, where each stone and artwork tells a story of faith, power, and artistic achievement. Whether you are a history enthusiast, an architecture aficionado, or simply a curious traveler, the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo promises an enriching and unforgettable experience.
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