Church of la Compañía

The Church of la Compañía, known locally as Iglesia de la Compañía, stands as a testament to the rich history and architectural beauty of Palencia, Spain. Nestled in the bustling Plaza de Isabel la Católica, this magnificent church is a beacon of spiritual and cultural significance, drawing visitors with its serene ambiance and historical charm.

The History of the Church of la Compañía

Constructed between 1584 and 1599 by the Jesuits, the Church of la Compañía was originally dedicated to Saint Lawrence. The church's creation was part of a broader Jesuit mission to establish educational and religious institutions across Europe. However, the church's purpose transformed significantly over time, especially following the expulsion of the Jesuits from Spain in 1767. This event led to the church becoming a parish sanctuary, housing the revered image of the Virgen de la Calle, the patroness of Palencia.

The Virgin's image, previously venerated in the Church of San Bernardo, found a new home here, infusing the church with a deep sense of local devotion and spiritual importance. The return of the Jesuits in 1871 marked another chapter in the church’s history, although they did not reclaim this building. Instead, they moved to another church, leaving the Church of la Compañía to continue its role as a center of worship and community gathering.

Architectural Marvels

The Church of la Compañía is a quintessential example of Jesuit architectural style. Its façade, a masterpiece of Renaissance sobriety with Escorial influences, is structured in three tiers, each narrower than the one below. The main entrance is framed by a simple lintelled doorway, crowned with a curved tympanum and a decorative shield, which seamlessly extends to the first cornice. Corinthian pilasters enhance the verticality of the façade, leading the eye upwards to a windowed second tier and further to a third tier featuring a split pediment with a niche housing a statue of the Virgin.

Inside, the church is designed with a single nave divided into three sections. The first section serves as the choir, while the remaining sections open into interconnected side chapels. A barrel vault with lunettes, adorned with intricate plasterwork, covers the nave. The crossing is topped with a dome resting on pendentives, decorated with geometric patterns that extend throughout the chancel’s vault. This design creates a harmonious flow of light and space, accentuated by the recently restored polychrome murals that adorn the walls.

The Baroque Splendor of the High Altar

Dominating the interior is the grand high altar, a baroque masterpiece crafted by Pedro Bahamonde in the 18th century. This altar is an exquisite blend of baroque and rococo influences, featuring undyed wood that adds a natural elegance to its intricate design. The altar is composed of two tiers, three sections, and a semi-circular attic, hosting nine statues, including those of Saint Lawrence and notable Jesuit saints like Saint Ignatius of Loyola.

Central to this collection is the small yet significant statue of the Virgen de la Calle, affectionately known as La Morenilla due to its darkened appearance. This 15th-century figure, accompanied by four 18th-century angels, is a focal point of devotion and is renowned for its miraculous reputation. The Virgin's crown, a piece of contemporary Castilian goldsmithing, adds to the allure of this sacred image.

Exploring the Side Chapels and Art

The church’s side chapels and transept arms are adorned with several baroque altarpieces from the 17th and 18th centuries. Among these, a 16th-century Crucifix attributed to Juan de Valmaseda stands out. This poignant image is central to the Brotherhood of the Holy Christ of Mercy and plays a significant role during the Holy Week processions in Palencia.

A Cultural and Spiritual Landmark

Since 1982, the Church of la Compañía has been recognized as a Bien de Interés Cultural, highlighting its national significance as a historical and artistic monument. For visitors, the church offers not only a glimpse into the spiritual life of Palencia but also an opportunity to experience the architectural and artistic achievements of the past.

Whether you are drawn by faith, history, or art, the Church of la Compañía invites you to explore its sacred spaces and discover the stories embedded in its walls. It is a place where the past and present converge, offering a tranquil retreat in the heart of Palencia.