Santa Clara

Nestled in the charming city of Palencia, Spain, the Santa Clara Monastery (Monasterio de Santa Clara) stands as a testament to Gothic architecture and centuries of religious devotion. This remarkable religious building, constructed between the 14th and 15th centuries, continues to be a place of worship and a home to a community of Poor Clare nuns. The monastery is renowned for its striking architecture, historical significance, and the revered image of the Holy Christ of the Poor Clares (Santísimo Cristo de las Claras), which has inspired numerous legends and miracles over the years.

The History of Santa Clara Monastery

The origins of the Santa Clara Monastery can be traced back to a royal decision made by Henry II of Castile and his wife, Queen Juana Manuel, around 1378. It was during this time that a group of Poor Clare nuns was brought to Palencia from the nearby town of Reinoso. Following the death of King Henry II, the patronage of the monastery was taken over by his nephew, Alfonso Enríquez de Castilla, Admiral of Castile, and his wife, Juana de Mendoza. In 1395, they initiated the construction of the church, intending it to serve as their family pantheon. Although no remnants of this funerary monument remain, the legacy of their patronage is evident in the monastery's architecture.

In the early 18th century, the patronage of the monastery returned to the royal family under the Bourbon dynasty during the reign of Philip V. This change occurred after the ninth Admiral of Castile, Juan Tomás Enríquez, fled to Portugal, refusing to serve as an ambassador to France. In 1802, the patronage passed to the House of Alba. The monastery faced a significant upheaval during the Revolution of 1868 when it was exclaustrated and converted into a hospital. The nuns were temporarily relocated to the Royal Monastery of Consolation in the nearby town of Calabazanos. However, in 1874, following the fall of the First Spanish Republic, the Poor Clares were able to return to their beloved monastery in Palencia.

Architectural Marvels

The Santa Clara Monastery is a stunning example of Gothic architecture, featuring a Greek cross plan with a triple apsidal head, the central apse having three sections. The exterior of the apses is reinforced with sturdy buttresses and adorned with cornices. The upper perimeter of the central apse and the transept is punctuated by Mudejar-inspired lattice windows, a characteristic element in such religious buildings.

The entrance to the church, located in the northern arm of the transept, is a masterpiece of late Gothic design. The portal features a lower carpanel arch and a pointed upper arch divided into three archivolts, with a conopial arch adorned with cardinas and a cogollo finial. Flanking the portal are slender pilasters and the Enríquez family coats of arms. The tympanum showcases figures of Saint Clare, Saint Francis, and Saint Michael, which are replicas of the originals now housed in the National Archaeological Museum. The arches are intricately decorated with vegetal motifs, fantastical animals, demons, and human figures, all contextualized within the theme of the Last Judgment.

Inside the church, visitors can admire several altarpieces dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries. The main altarpiece, crafted by Pedro de Correas in the early 18th century, is a baroque masterpiece featuring images of Saint Michael, Saint Raphael, the Annunciation, and various Franciscan saints. The Blessed Sacrament is permanently displayed on the main altar.

The Holy Christ of the Poor Clares

One of the most venerated and mysterious images housed in the Santa Clara Monastery is the Holy Christ of the Poor Clares (Santísimo Cristo de las Claras), also known as the Christ of the Good Death. This wooden sculpture, measuring 1.4 meters in length, is now enclosed in a glass case and resides in a chapel named after it on the north side of the church. The figure's realistic and expressive features, with articulated limbs, natural horn nails, and human hair, have fueled countless legends and miraculous tales over the centuries.

According to tradition, the Christ figure was discovered floating in the Mediterranean Sea, emitting a supernatural glow, by the fleet of Admiral Alonso Enríquez around 1407-1410. The admiral intended to bring the sacred image to Palenzuela, but when the procession reached the village of Reinoso, the animal carrying the Christ refused to move further. Interpreting this as a divine sign, the procession redirected to the Santa Clara Monastery in Palencia, where the Christ has remained ever since.

Legends and Miracles

The Christ of the Poor Clares has been the subject of numerous miraculous stories. One legend recounts that in 1592, during a visit to Palencia, King Philip II was so moved by the sight of the Christ that he exclaimed, This is not the work of men but of God. Another tale from 1666 describes how the Christ's hands, originally crossed over its chest, were found extended over the sepulchral slab overnight, sparking beliefs in its supernatural nature. These stories, along with the Christ's lifelike appearance, led to the superstition that its hair and nails grew and were periodically trimmed by the abbess.

In 2006, a meticulous restoration project led by Luis Cristóbal Antón, a professor at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando, revealed the true nature of the sculpture. The restoration process, which included structural studies and chemical analyses, dispelled the myth of the Christ being a mummified human body. The sculpture was confirmed to be a work of art designed for use in religious ceremonies, particularly the Deposition from the Cross, with features such as a conduit in the torso for simulating the flow of blood.

Visiting Santa Clara Monastery

The Santa Clara Monastery is open to worshippers and visitors daily from 8:30 AM to 8:00 PM. Its rich history, architectural beauty, and the enigmatic Christ of the Poor Clares make it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the cultural and religious heritage of Palencia. As you walk through its hallowed halls and admire the intricate details of its Gothic architecture, you will undoubtedly feel a deep connection to the centuries of devotion and artistry that have shaped this remarkable sanctuary.