Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption (Chur)

Perched gracefully on a rocky terrace overlooking the charming town of Chur in Switzerland, the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption (locally known as Kathedrale St. Mariä Himmelfahrt) stands as a testament to centuries of architectural evolution and religious significance. This magnificent structure, with its blend of Romanesque and Gothic elements, beckons visitors to explore its rich history, artistic treasures, and serene ambiance.

The History of the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption

The origins of the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption date back to the 4th century when the Diocese of Chur was established in the territory of Churrätien. The first bishop of the diocese was documented in 451/452, and it is believed that the initial cathedral was constructed around the year 450. Initially under the jurisdiction of Milan, the diocese was transferred to the Archdiocese of Mainz in 831, where it remained until 1803.

The cathedral we see today began to take shape between 1150 and 1272, during the tenure of Bishop Adalgott. This period saw the construction of a late Romanesque pillar basilica, which replaced the earlier structure in several phases over approximately 120 years. The completed cathedral was consecrated on June 19, 1272.

In 1828/1829, following a devastating fire in 1811, the cathedral received its current tower with a distinctive curved dome, rebuilt on the foundations of the previous tower from around 1500. The cathedral, along with the Bishop's Palace and the canons' courtyards, forms a church district that majestically overlooks the old town of Chur, resembling a fortified church complex. Archaeological excavations have uncovered traces of a late Roman fort from the 4th century, suggesting that the Romans utilized this strategic location for provincial administration.

Architectural Marvels

Externally, the cathedral presents a simple yet imposing cubic structure. The main portal, dating from around 1250, is framed by twelve slender columns on Attic bases. The tympanum above the portal features a 1730 grille depicting Mary surrounded by the diocese's patron saints, Lucius and Florinus. Above this, a large Romanesque west window adds to the cathedral's austere beauty.

Notable external features include a striking lion sculpture at the northeast corner of the choir, dating from the early 13th century, and a fragmentary crucifixion scene from the first third of the 14th century on the eastern wall of the choir.

Exploring the Interior

Inside, the late Romanesque pillar basilica is divided into three large, almost square bays. The elevated choir, accessible via side stairs, shares the same width as the central nave and sits above a two-part crypt. This crypt once housed the family tombs of noble ministerial families, including the von Juvalt and von Castelmur families. The central nave is flanked by two side aisles, with the southern aisle leading to the Chapel of Saint Lawrence and the two-story sacristy further east.

The cathedral's floor plan reveals a notable asymmetry, possibly due to the challenging topography or a theological symbolism, with the northward-bending choir potentially representing the inclined head of Christ on the cross. The architecture of the cathedral showcases numerous unique solutions, creating a distinctive spatial impression.

Artistic Treasures

The interior of the cathedral is adorned with numerous artistic treasures. From the late Gothic period, visitors can admire the bud capitals at the stepped portal, the intricately carved high altar (completed in 1492) by Jakob Russ, and a sacrament house. The Chapel of Saint Lawrence boasts a net vault from 1467.

The oldest surviving sculpture in the cathedral is a set of Lombard relief plates from the 8th century, likely from the predecessor Tello Cathedral. These white Laaser marble plates, featuring intricate interlace patterns with animals and spiral tendrils with leaves and grapes, now adorn the mensa of the 1545 Saint Lawrence altar.

The Romanesque capitals, created during the cathedral's construction, exhibit various stages of development, from cube capitals in the crypt to early Gothic bud capitals at the main portal. The figurative capitals in the choir and eastern nave, masterpieces by 12th-century stonemasons, are particularly noteworthy.

Restoration and Preservation

The cathedral underwent a comprehensive restoration from 1921 to 1926, followed by another extensive restoration from 2001 to 2007. This latter effort, led by architects Rudolf Fontana and Gioni Signorell, focused on preserving the historic building fabric. The cathedral was rededicated on October 7, 2007, in a ceremony led by the emeritus Bishop Amédée Grab, with Diocesan Bishop Vitus Huonder in attendance. The restoration, costing 22 million Swiss francs, was funded by contributions from the federal and cantonal governments, church bodies, private donors, and businesses.

Visiting the Cathedral

A visit to the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Assumption offers a journey through centuries of history and art. Whether you are admiring the Romanesque and Gothic architectural elements, exploring the crypt and its noble tombs, or marveling at the intricate carvings and frescoes, the cathedral provides a serene and enriching experience. As you stand on the terrace, taking in the panoramic views of Chur and the surrounding mountains, you can feel the timeless presence of this sacred place, a beacon of faith and heritage in the heart of Switzerland.